Category: National Parks

Arizona, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Cottonwood Campground, Canyon de Chelly

Canyon de Chelly National Monument

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Wednesday, July 27, 2022

We chatted with our neighbors in a cool NoBo trailer with a tent on top. A lady was making pancakes. Martha went over to see the unique NoBo, similar to Ruff and Sandra’s, but smaller. they had five people traveling in it – two small children, a teen-age boy, two women and the mother of one. 

Christine, with a big, beautiful smile, welcomed us, and showed us around. They were Hopi, with various links and marriages. With a slide-out drawer, she was cooking on an outdoor gas stove. There was a large cooler-like refrigerator behind it. Two cute girls said Hi from inside the tent on top of the trailer. The teen-age boy was sleeping inside where three sleeping bags appeared to take up the whole inside. The mother sat at a picnic table. 

They were from the state of Washington on a two-week tour. Once they heard we were headed to Canyon de Chelly, the mother opened up, telling us about the Hopi Nation living within the Navajo Nation. They live on top of three mesas that was largely overlooked by the Spanish, who saw the area as unproductive land. She said the Hopi are a peaceful people who didn’t wander so much as the Navajo. They build homes and grew a lot of their food.

It was interesting hearing their stories, but we finally let them eat their breakfast. The teen-age boy came out and introduced himself. He said he was listening to music, which he then interprets and writes his own version. They were all very nice.

We drove south on 163 through Kayenta turning east on 160, then south again on 59 for a pleasant drive. For the third time we called Sirius XM to try to fix my weather app, always an important feature, but especially on this trip to see how hot it is going to be, or how much it will rain. We are in the monsoon season in this area, so it can get interesting. It is pretty amazing how big, dark storms gather each afternoon. You can see the rain traveling across the area, yet it might never touch us.

Martha got somewhere, but then lost cell coverage. We tried again in Chinle near Canyon de Chelly and got to the travel app division before loosing contact.

We pulled into a nice, little Visitor’s Center and looked around. A young lady explained we should drive the south rim of the canyon in the afternoon/evening and the north rim in the morning. There are various overlooks along the way. She also explained the two campgrounds, Cottonwood and Spider Rock Campground on top of the mountain. She explained Canyon de Chelly is pronounced de Shay, From Wikipedia: “The name Chelly (or Chelley) is a Spanish borrowing of the Navajo word Tséyiʼ, which means “canyon” (literally “inside the rock” < tsé “rock” + -yiʼ“inside of, within”). The Navajo pronunciation is [tséɣiʔ]. The Spanish pronunciation of de Chelly [deˈtʃeʎi] was adapted into English, apparently modeled on[clarification needed] a French-like spelling pronunciation, and is now /dəˈʃeɪ/ də-SHAY.”

They had a very big rain yesterday, and the river or creek had flooded the area. We first drove through Cottonwood Campground. Signs said the bathrooms were closed due to water pressure problems, so we drove 15 miles to look at Spider Rock Campground. It was very rough-looking with trailers and trucks and old equipment at the entrance. With a huge, black cloud looming, we turned around and started back down.

Normally a creek, that has to be crossed to get into the canyon

We stopped at the first overlook and had lunch. I took a long nap since I was up early this morning.  We walked over to the rocky edge to see what was below. We saw an incredibly beautiful valley surrounded by sheer rock walls. A stream ran through the middle. For thousands of years this valley has been farmed and lived in. We couldn’t wait to tour it with a guide tomorrow, but we could see how it might be difficult to drive through the valley with the stream so swollen. 

We explored every overlook on the way down, and all were beautiful. The Navajo people still farm the valley and the top of the mesa where horses roamed free. 

We set up camp back at Cottonwood after talking with a ranger. She said two bathrooms were open now with flush toilets, so Martha was happy. We settled on site 35, apparently a popular site. A tour group of kids set up behind us as that dark cloud crept closer. Fortunately, the bulk of it went around us. Depending on where the bulk of it went, we may or may not be able to take our tour tomorrow with the highly-touted Tsegi Jeep Tours and Bobby Vanwinkle.

Indian tribes in the Four Corners
Open range where horses run free
Street-smart
Bear's Ears National Monument, Utah

The Goosenecks State Park/ Valley of the Gods

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Tuesday, July 26, 2022

We drove 30 miles north of Monument Valley to The Goosenecks State Park, stopping to take pictures at Forest Gump Point, with a very pretty view of Monument Valley. We also stopped at Mexican Hat to take some pictures. Driving up a gravel road, there was a campground ahead, but we decided not to explore it since we had a full day on the agenda. 

Run Forrest run!
Mexican Hat

We passed a sign for Bear’s Ears National Monument, which we would see later. I have been questioning what Bear’s Ears is during our travels in the southwest. I now understand it is over 2,000 square miles of land with hundreds of ancient heritage sites. Apparently difficult to understand and visit, I would like to return and explore it.

We pulled into The Goosenecks State Park, but the ranger station wasn’t open yet. Our Utah State Park pass came in handy again, so we went through to the parking lot. I had been tempted to stay at this campground, but wasn’t quite sure what it would be like out in the middle of nowhere. Well, it is very cool and safe. Only a few campers were there. You can also camp all along the rim, or just go out there for dinner, build a fire and enjoy the views.

It had been raining for a while, and a rainbow right over the Goosenecks greeted us. I scrambled frantically to get some pictures before it dissolved and went away. We walked through the campground and down a dirt road that wound its way to the end of a point. Along the way were primitive campsites with fire pits and overlooks of the San Juan River below. 

San Juan River winding around three goosenecks
Martha’s iPhone

Three people were camped in one, and we stopped to talk with them. It was a couple with a friend from Thailand had pitched tents last night. The stars must be incredible here, but they said it was cloudy. Still they loved their spot. They were headed for Valley of the Gods today, and so were we.

We continued out to the point to see the river bending around it. You could camp in the campground and come out here for dinner and a fire and watch the stars, or pitch your tent and watch all night. It’s a very cool spot!

  • A fair sample of what we have seen in 8 weeks of travel

We walked back to the parking lot where Martha talked with a jewelry salesperson named Bobby. His father and grandfather had sold their goods here too, and his father was a code-talker. Bobby is also a code-talker, but we think of code-talkers like the movie. He said the move doesn’t do it justice, but to read one of several books written on the subject. He talked about coming here with his father and climbing down to the river and how difficult it was coming back up. 

We drove northwest to Valley of The Gods, which is a 19-mile loop drive through the valley on a gravel road. It is very pretty, although the road is a bit rough. A tow truck was carrying a jeep out, which made us a bit leery, but the road was fine, and a van and several cars passed us when we stopped to look at named monuments. By the end, we thought the name was a bit over the top, but certainly a cool place. There is a bed and breakfast lodge on the west end of the drive.

  • The Seven Sailors
  • Setting Hen
  • Battleship
  • Soldiers watching

Leaving the park and driving back toward Mexican Hat, we were struck by swirled colors along a mountain.

Arizona, Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, Utah

Monument Valley Navajo Tour

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Monday, July 25, 2022

We drove a few miles from the KOA campground to the entrance of Monument Valley, on the Navajo Nation, and paid our $8 per person fee. We met Bobby Atele and climbed onto the seats built on the back of a Chevrolet pickup. A couple from Alabama were in front of us with their son. A young couple from Italy were behind us.

At the first stop, Bobby told us about several monuments before us, then about the plants around us, and how they are used. He talked about the movies and which monuments they were filmed around. Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_appearances_of_Monument_Valley_in_the_media) lists 63 movies that have been made here starting in 1925. Stagecoach might be the most famous and iconic. John Ford would make eight movies here. Vertical Limit opens with a climbing scene on one. Mission Impossible opened with Tom Cruise climbing solo. Although Bobby said it was in Monument Valley, I found an interesting article on the event, (https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mission_impossible_ii_climbing_scenes_special-18), which said it was filmed at Dead Horse Point, Utah, one of the coolest places we have been on this trip, where we met the handsome, young couple eating breakfast. I remember watching “Stagecoach” and thinking the red sand looked fake, but it is not.

  • Not our guide, he said with a smile, “You better take a map. Bobby sometimes gets lost.”
  • John Ford Point
  • Bobby Atele
  • Rocks looking like clamshells
  • Sleeping dragon

Driving down into the valley, we stopped at John Ford Point, where some iconic scenes were filmed. They have a horse and rider to give perspective to the immense landscape, but the horse was eating breakfast.

  • Sleeping Dragon with a herd of sheep and sheep dog.
  • The Sentinel
  • This is the Navajo Nation. People live here

We soon left the gravel roads and traveled on sand tracks made more tricky by a big rain last night. Besides the iconic monuments, we saw giant rocks shaped like oysters, a cliff shaped like a great dragon, a hole in the top of a cave that looked like an eagle’s eye from one direction and a Mohican from the front. to demonstrate the echo of the cave, Bobby played his flute. He was quite good. One area had very cool petroglyphs and remains of homes made of rock. 

  • Looks like an eagle with the hole being the eye and the beak to the left

At the dragon rock, a local farmer’s sheepdog came to check us out. Then I noticed the herd of sheep grazing and moving along the dragon. People still live amongst the rocks. Some of their homes are build like they were hundreds of years ago, because it works in this harsh environment. Some are built with modern materials. Sweat lodges are still used in a ceremony for the transition of a boy into manhood. 

Looking like a Mohican Indian facing to the left

It is rare to find homes or farms in a national park, but this is not a national park. It is the Navajo Nation. Although I first complained to myself about a house in the way of my picture, but the time we completed our three and a half hour tour, I became comfortable with it. Actually, it adds a lot when you realize these people have been here for hundreds or thousands of years. Bobby told of one lady who recently passed away at 105 years old, spending her entire life here.

There are so many things we would not have seen if we hadn’t taken this tour, and Bobby did an outstanding job.

Arizona, Monument Valley KOA, Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, Ten-X Campground, Kainab National Forest, Utah

Move to Monument Valley

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We have been in a lot of places without cell coverage or WIFI, so I am 21 days behind! We have been in some spectacular places. Our national parks and monuments are great places. For the next 12 days, we should have good service, so I should catch up.

Sunday, July 24, 2022

We packed up at Ten-X Campground, with one more visit by our elk. Suddenly, there were barking dogs. I looked up to see a couple of mixed breed medium-sized dogs running after the elk. He took off at a big trot, leading those dogs to who knows where. Soon a young lady came after them, calling futilely. She may never see those dogs again, depending on how long they chase the elk, and if they have any sense of finding their way back to the campground.

 We hooked up and headed east, making one last stop at Lipan Point for some spectacular views of the Grand Canyon. Once down the mountain, we turned northeast on Rt. 160 toward Monument Valley. We were a little concerned about the heat, as we had been very comfortable at Ten-X. Except for the yellow jacket invasion, I would rate the campground a 9 or 10. As we drove out, we saw traps that were working well around the fresh water spigots. 

It was about a 2.5 hour pleasant drive to Monument Valley KOA campground. Once settled, we went to the Visitor’s Center. Although open, it was pretty stark inside. We wandered around reading signs and looking at pictures. A young foreign couple asked an employee about maps and trails. She was very curt. “All we do is sell maps. We don’t take credit cards. This is an all-cash park.” She gave them no information or help of any sort and should be relieved of her position immediately. The Welcome Center was not very welcoming.

We drove through the traffic circle to Goulding’s Lodge and Trading Post to look around. Harry and Leone (called Mike) Goulding came here in the 1920’s, starting the trading post, hotel and bringing people here to see this great place. They were influential in bringing John Ford here. Ford would later film “Stagecoach” here. That would start a long history of movie-making in Monument Valley.

Back at the KOA, a big, black storm was approaching from the north. With monuments right on the other side of the street, we headed out for some pictures. It made for some very dramatic shots.

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, Shoshone Point, Grand Canyon NP

Shoshone Point, Grand Canyon National Park

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Saturday, July 23, 2022

We were driving the eastern part of the south rim and came to a sandy parking area with no sign. We pulled in and asked a man who was walking back down the trail. He said it was a beautiful view and a 3/4 mile walk up this sand road. 

We didn’t know what to expect, but it was a beautiful spot out on a ledge with great views. On the way back a family (perhaps German) were taking pictures of a tree, so we stopped to ask what they saw. It was a gopher snake eating a mouse. How it caught the mouse 4’ up a tree is a mystery.

Then we drove to the museum, a cool building that was closed. Outside the building were vendors. We walked around the other side to find an ancient site that was built in the Pueblo Indians 800 years ago in the Pueblo Ii era 950-1150). It was occupied for about 20 years.

On the other side of the closed museum, Indian art was being sold by four vendors, and all of it was very good. Martha bought a couple of pieces. 

We talked with a museum guide, who told us some of the Pueblo beliefs. They believe they came out of the Earth. We would learn later that their kivas were important because symbolically they climbed down into the kiva from the roof, exiting the same way. He said Pueblos believe there are four periods, and we are in the last one now. 

We made one more stop at Navajo Point before heading back to camp

  • Museum
  • Navajo Point
Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, Ten-X Campground, Kainab National Forest, Western South Rim Trail, Grand Canyon NP

Western Rim Hike, Grand Canyon National Park

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Friday, July 22, 2022

We caught the red line bus to the western part of the South Rim Trail, most of which is unpaved. We walked along the rim for an hour seeing very few people. No cars are allowed on this section, so bikers took advantage. Early in the morning it would be a great bike ride. We passed a small group that were on a bike tour. 

We caught the bus, went up a stop or two, then walked the last mile to Hermit’s Rest. I love this building that blends in with its surroundings. It has the most incredible fireplace!

  • Hermit’s Restt
  • Grand View

Back at Ten-X Campground, we had to stay inside the Airstream. Yellow Jackets have infested the campground. They don’t sting you, but they buzz all around you and whatever food or drink you carry. 

We have been fortunate to have elk in our camp almost every day, mostly three males. Patty educated me on what males are called. they are spikes until their horns branch. Then they are called bulls. 

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, Ten-X Campground, Kainab National Forest

Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon NP

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Wednesday, July 20, 2022

We hiked Bright Angel Trail to the 1.5 mark, where there is a spring and a restroom! It was certainly easy enough walking down. It was about 7:30 when we started – not early enough! there were a lot of people already at the spring when we got there, and I had to stand in line to go to the bathroom. 

As we started back up, we talked with a nice lady ranger. I asked how far it was to the edge of the mesa below. We could clearly see the trail below us, and it didn’t appear to be a bad walk. She said, “It is 6.5 miles to that overlook. You have been a mile and a half.” I quickly acknowledged we could not hike back up 6.5 miles. She said a lot of people walk down to Indian Garden, a green area we could easily see. They would often spend the night there, walking out to the end in the evening. Then hiking back up in the morning. 

Martha asked about shade going back up. She said it is mostly shady in the morning, so round-trip hikers will sometimes walk down Kaibab Trail, spend the night, then hike back up Bright Angel, taking advantage of shade going down and coming back up. She said we were smart to start back up. 

We might have been considered smart if we had started at 7:00, or even 6:00, but it got hot as we made our way back up. We had to stop many times to rest and catch our breath. I had soaked my shirt in the spring water before starting. By the time we got back to the top, we were exhausted by a tough 3-mile walk!

We went back to Bright Angel Lodge for lunch and a lot of water! Then back to our campsite for a nap. It was very hot, so we turned the air conditioner on, set to 85 degrees. It cut back on in 20 minutes, and we did that for three hours. We were not plugged in, so this was an extreme test for our batteries. It ate up all of the charge, by the time we turned it off in the evening. I hoped the Arizona sun would help regain power tomorrow. 

In the evening we went to Grand View to watch the sun set. It was interesting to follow guides, listening to their talks. I cringed as parents crawled over the wall with their kids too get to a “better” spot. One guide noted buzzards circling below us. He said someone probably fell down there. “It happens all the time”, he said. They might have a broken bone or worse.

We decided to leave a bit early to beat the crowd. Driving back, the whole sky lit up! 

It was too hot to cook, so we went out to dinner. It was just OK, but it beat cooking on a hot day. Fortunately it had turned cooler and was fine for sleeping. Worried about battery power, I cut off the fan at midnight and closed the vent. It was 60 degrees when I got up!

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon NP

Hike to Ooo Ahh Point, Grand Canyon National Park

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Tuesday, July 19, 2022

We went to watch the sunrise at Yaki Point. Others had picked their spots long before us, some bringing chairs. 

We then went to the Kaibab Trail Head, opting to walk .9 mile to Ooo Ahh Point. There are other turn around places, but we didn’t want to push our luck. It was a pretty morning, maybe 75 degrees and shady. Walking down in easy enough. We followed three girls, one videoing the whole thing on her phone. At Ooo Ahh, they took turns taking pictures of each other standing on a rock.

The walk back up wasn’t terrible, so we rewarded ourselves with coffee and huevos ranchos at Bright Angel Lodge. Elk were trimming the bushes all around the lodge! Walking behind the lodge, we went to the geology museum on the edge of the canyon. A little further west we came to the Kolb Studio and museum. The Kolb brothers came in the late 1800’s and spent their lives here, exploring, photographing, filming a trip down the Colorado through the canyon, and did a lot to bring visitors. Incredibly brave, it is amazing what they accomplished.

Outside the museum we saw a riders coming up the trail on the famous mules. We followed them to the hitching rail where the mules were given water. They were good-looking mules and happy to get their sweaty heads rubbed. A guide said it is a two hour ride down and 4.5 hours back up. The riders looked tired as well. I would like to take that trip!

Back at camp, a beautiful elk buck came to visit, lying down in the shade just behind the picnic table. It was a good day!

Arizona, Bighorn sheep, Grand Canyon National Park, South Rim Trail, Grand Canyon NP

Grand Canyon Visitor’s Center and South Rim Trail

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Monday, July 18, 2022

What a change! From 107 degree highs with little escape to 59 degree low in Ten-X Campground in the Kaibab National Forest 10 miles south of  of Grand Canyon National Park. We went to sleep with all the windows open after a lovely stir-fry dinner while watching three elk bucks wander through the campground. 

I was awakened by talking and laughter outside our front window. A group of young campers had come in and were setting up just across from us at 11:30. Speaking Chinese I think, they were having a big time, but with no regard for their neighbors. I resisted the urge to go out in my underwear and tell them to consider others.

We slept relatively late. There was an unexpected time change, as Arizona doesn’t recognize daylight savings time. As we got ready for the day and tried to find Martha’s lost iPad, I slammed my car door several times. I wanted to honk the horn, but Martha said I would wake our nice neighbors to the right. They had come in yesterday afternoon in a big camper with a young boy and girl. After setting up, he came over to introduce himself. They are from Michigan and have been on the road for a couple of weeks. It was cool to watch the whole family do their part of the set-up. Then the little boy hopped on his bike and explored the campground.

There is a small city at the south rim around the Visitor’s Center. There are stores, restaurants, coffee houses, hotels, two campgrounds, a services center, everything you need in a maze of roads. Like Zion, the Visitor’s Center is mostly outdoors, using sign’s to give you information. Angel’s Landing hike in Zion gains 1600’ and is considered difficult. The Bright Angel Trail here is 5,000’ change in elevation and 25-20 degrees in temperature. You would have to carry a gallon of water and four sandwiches for each direction.

We opted to walk the rim trail, which is really a road. It was fairly crowded, and most people were nice. One big group however, decided to take 30 pictures at a big overlook with no concern for others. Like Zion, people come from all over the world, speaking many languages.

Martha pointed out a lady taking pictures of goats. I quickly turned around to see her. She smiled and pointed to a rock platform where there were five or six goats. Of course I had a 35-70mm lens, but she was shooting with a phone. She went ahead along the rim to get closer and I followed. She left the rim, going down the side to get closer. At first I refused, but seeing it was a well-worn path, I followed, and we got some pretty good shots. We have been looking for goats for a month. Then they show up in numbers right below the busy Rim Trail.

I looked through several stores for a 30 amp breaker switch with no luck. Our air conditioner has been tripping that breaker, and the top three breakers get very hot. Worrying about a fire, I shut it down for a couple of hours. In Zion, where high temperatures were 104-110 every day, it was torture. We finally learned to nurse it by setting it to 84 at night, and gradually lowering it through the night.

Martha Googled RV electricians and called one. The secretary said he had stepped out and would call us back. The next day Jeff with a southern accent, called. I explained the problem to him. He said it sounded like a breaker problem, so I asked if he could come and help us with it. He asked where we were, and I told him Watchman Campground. I was surprised when he said he never heard of that. When I said it is in Zion National Park, Jeff said he was in Arkansas!! We both got a laugh, then he proceeded to tell me what to do. I could barely hear him, but I thanked him profusely. 

I then emailed Lew Farber, who did all my solar work. A quick reply said it was strange it didn’t trip the 20 amp air conditioner breaker. He recommended replacing the breaker and see what happens. 

A man told Martha there was a hardware store in Valle, 20 miles south. Otherwise, it’s an hour and a half to Flagstaff.

Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, Ten-X Campground, Kainab National Forest

Move to Ten-X Campground

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Saturday, July 16, 2022

Back on Rt. 89 going south, it was hot, very hot. Our 4.5-hour drive was at first very pretty, but then became more of a desert. we stopped at the very nice Glazier’s Market in Kanab, Utah and stocked up. They gave us a receipt for 15% off at their gas station.

Crossing into Arizona, we stopped for lunch at an overlook of the Colorado River and Lake Powell, which is now at 27% capacity. It was a nice spot for lunch under a covered picnic area.

The next two hours was desert, and the land looked like a giant gravel yard with gravel mountains. As we began to climb the mountain into the huge Kaibab National Forest, it became more green and temperatures dropped from 105 to 88 at the top.

We entered Grand Canyon National Park, showing our Senior Pass, and drove south on Rt. 64 to Ten-X Campground in the national forest. Two reasons led me to Ten-X. first I couldn’t get a site in the park, and second there were pictures of elk in the Ten-X campground. It is also in a forest, and well-shaded.

We liked our campsite fortunately, because we would be here for a week. Ten-X got its name because it is 10 miles from the south entrance to the park. We hope to visit the north rim later, but we will still be in the Kaibab National Forest.

We took a drive up to the Visitor’s Center, which has moved outside, using big signs to introduce visitors to the park. We walked along the South Rim Trail for a while. It is so immense, it boggles the mind. The Colorado travels 277 miles through the park, is about one mile deep and 10 miles across. At the narrowest point, it is 600 yards across. The river’s average width is 300 feet across, although it narrows to only 76 feet wide at mile 135, where the river, 85 feet deep, is also at its deepest. On average, the Colorado River within the Grand Canyon is 40 feet deep. (https://www.gcex.com/grand-canyon-trivia/) One sign said it is the largest example of erosion in the world. 

Three beautiful bucks came to visit
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