Category: Ojibwe Campground

Fishing French Lake

Wanting to catch a couple of fish for dinner, we went to a rock behind the Teaching Center, that a ranger had recommended. Martha patiently watched and played games on her phone while I fished a variety of lures with the regular spinning rod and the ultralight rod. Nothing. No hits, no runs, no errors.

After lunch we launched the kayak on French Lake. Two guys were loading up for a two-week trip. My plan was to fish around an island in the middle of the lake. I set off with two rods, a tackle box and a box of trout lures. Smallmouth bass, walleye and pike are the three main attractions. I put on a tiny torpedo, my go-to lure in Virginia fro smallmouth.

I saw a couple of rises in the middle of the lake and threw toward them. Fishing from a kayak is a little dicey. Throwing sideways and behind me, I tipped the boat a bit. I hadn’t put a life jacket on. Really, who needs one in the middle of a calm lake? Every other person I have observed was wearing one. Half way to the island, I realized it would be very difficult to catch my gear, flip the kayak back over and get back on board – probably impossible for an old fart like me. I would be more careful.

I had to rest a couple of times before getting to the island that didn’t seem very far away. My first throw got the lure half way to shore. Paddling the kayak and keeping it in position to throw would prove challenging. My second throw was perfect, landing between the rock cliff and a log. Wham! A big strike , but it surprised me and I missed. Now I approached this adventure with more enthusiasm. As I slowly followed the shore, I found I could put in a straightening paddle stroke without putting the rod down. I had six strikes with no catches. It was more like I was making them mad than giving them something to eat. They will do that when they are on the beds, but it is way too late for that.

Martha had asked how I knew it was an island. I thought that a silly question until now. I began to question if it was really a big peninsula. After being totally immersed in fishing, I looked around to get my bearings. Was I going around something or going further away from my put-in? Further ahead I could see power lines that follow the Trans Canada 11 highway. I kept fishing, but with a bit more speed. I was relieved to see the big rock cliff where I had started. One more smash hit with no catch. I don’t know how a fish can do that without getting snagged by two treble hooks. I pinch the barbs down, but that has little effect on catching fish. If a bass jumps out of the water, it can shake loose more easily, but it’s worth it for the show.

I threw at the spot where I got my first strike, but nothing happened. Now I looked up the lake for the beach where I had launched. I couldn’t see it. I searched the shore for topographic features. Suddenly I felt what it would feel like in the wilderness where these paddlers would go. All I could see were forests on both sides, all looking so similar. I searched the left shore slowly. I could see the rock where I fished this morning, and I paddled toward it. I should have trailed a lure behind me, but I was intent on getting into familiar territory.

I cast toward the rock to no avail. Similar results through a grassy cove. Then a good hit near some rocks. I had it on for a second, but then it was gone. I could see a beach ahead. A person was sitting on a big rock ahead of it. There was a beach on the other side of the rock, and the person pointed to it. Ahhh, it was Martha. She was pointing to a big rock with about eight ducks sitting on it. Several were playing in the water. Martha wanted to know what kind they were. I couldn’t tell, and I didn’t want to disturb them. It brought back images of Kelly sitting on a rock in the middle of the Farmington River in Connecticut with three ducks sitting behind him and two swimming below the rock.

Carrying the kayak back up the hill made us appreciate the importance of weight of the boat, especially in this environment where you have to portage. Some of these canoes are so light you can see light through them. One person can carry them over their head. They are also broader, which aids in stability. Martha’s kayak is built for stability, so it is not light.

Paul Kane Trail

Monday, September 8, 2025

39 deg at 4 am

I laid in bed readdressing my furnace problem. Sail switch, I decided. Was I blocking air flow with my tape? I could hear the technician I might hire, laughing at my Velcro tape job.

Moonset

On our way to hike, we stopped at the canoe launch parking lot. On a Monday, it was busy. We watched a family loading up for a week of paddling. They were all so friendly, answering all our American questions while they continued to load three canoes. The young girl had a 7-month old baby, who was smiling until I took a picture. She had a good topographic map, showing us their route for today. They have done this many times, probably since she was a baby. I asked how she finds her way. “Oh you recognize topographic features. We also have a Spot GPS, and even if you don’t have cell service, Google maps will show where you are.” This is really what this huge park is about. There are 2500 campsites on a first-come-first serve basis. The father, or grandfather, said some are great, but all are acceptable. We wished them well and walked back up the hill.

We drove across TCan 11 to the Paul Kane Trail at the top of the waterfall where Indians as well as trappers portaged around the falls. Paul Kane famously painted this spot as he traveled with the Hudson Bay Company. It was an hour hike. then we drove across the Trans Canada Highway back to Quetico and walked a while on the Pickerel Creek trail before going into the Visitors Center. A fire was going in the incredible fireplace in the center of the room. It was a pretty warm day of about 67 degrees and sunny. Still, the mood set by that unique fireplace is great. A young ranger lady greeted us with a smile.

We went downstairs to the library, sitting on a very comfortable leather couch, and perused a camping cookbook that caught our attention. There were some great tips and recipes with tantalizing pictures. Martha is a good camping cook, and she was picking up tips. 

Starving to death now, we went back upstairs and talked to two rangers beside the fire. Martha asked when the recent storm came through and did such destruction to the trees. I mean trees that were spun around 90 degrees  before being snapped off. The gentleman said a tornado came down in Quetico in July and did a lot of damage. It was a miracle that no one was hurt. They had gone around telling people to go to one of the buildings.

One gentleman did that. Later returning to his campsite, a big tree lay right on top of his tent. Trailers were damaged, but people escaped. One lady was in panic mode because trees trapped her from leaving. When rangers came and removed the trees, she gave them big hugs.

Then another event came through in August, not a tornado, but strong winds. More trees were destroyed. Their crews have been very busy, and they have contracted outside help. Volunteers for this park are amazing, clearing many of the portages and 2500 remote campsites. We bought two bundles of firewood for our last two nights here. Martha encouraged me to go fishing while she did the laundry. Sounded like a good plan to me.  

Over lunch Martha asked if I was going fishing or working on the furnace. Finally I said, the furnace. I got my tools and opened the furnace door, studying the wires and their connections, checking my before-pictures. Satisfied, I turned it on and it fired up!! OK, I guess I can go fishing.

I drove up to a spot one of the rangers had suggested. It’s a rock outcrop near a beach. There were secluded picnic tables in grassy areas with fire pits. The more I explore, the more I like this park.

The power of a storm that can splinter a tree like this

I changed lures for the tenth time when the winds picked up and it got cooler. I went back to the truck and got another shirt, sure this lure was the one. Then the thunder came and it started raining. I got back to camp just in time to help Martha fold laundry.

She made an excellent split pea and ham soup and a salad with smoked trout. 

The Whiskey Jack Trail

September 6, 2025 

36 degrees at 6:00

We are on Central Time now.

All the stars were out this morning! I should have gotten a picture, but it was too chilly to lay on the picnic table. We waited until 10:00 to go exploring the park, hoping for a little warmer temperatures.

There were lots of trees down, some being twisted around. Others were uprooted. We saw 7 grouse this morning, some just walking down the gravel road, tame like a ptarmigan.

With an appetizer of smoked trout and spiced mustard crackers, Martha made dinner of roasted vegetables and pickerel cheeks. It was a good day.

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