Month: August 2025

Marathon Laundry

August 27, 2025

55 deg. at 7:00 am, cloudy

I love sleeping in a pine forest beside the big lake they call Gitchigoomi. I woke at 7 and didn’t want to get up, but peeking through one eye, I could see it was daylight. 

I like this camp at Pukaskwa National Park. . It’s quiet. There is electric, which is unusual for a national park. We have no cellular, but you can get WIFI at the Visitor’s Center, so it makes it a gathering place in a beautiful setting with Hattie Cove right behind it. 80% of the people have at least one boat on their truck or car. 

If you really want to see this park, it is by backpacking or by expedition canoe or kayak and camping on an island or along the coast, looking up at the stars from your down sleeping bag. 

The facilities are excellent – great, heated bathrooms, good showers, a laundry or one washer and one dryer. There’s a camaraderie feeling. We are all here to enjoy the incredible scenery in our own way. 

Some are here just for the great beaches. While we are not yet acclimated, Canadians pull their wagons to the beach for a swim or a day in the sun, even if there is no sun. 

We gathered all our dirty laundry and drove 20 minutes to Marathon. The GPS took us to a nice, blue building. As Martha headed up the steps, a lady said the laundry was next door. They got a good chuckle out of that. 

Next door, we loaded four washers and got change from the lady in charge. Actually it might be her cute, little dog that was in charge. She checked on us regularly. 

I noticed a bike outside leaning against the wall. It had two serious bags on the back, one carrying a guitar case. Inside I asked a rather unkept, but pretty girl if it was hers. She is traveling across Canada, playing on corners or an occasional gig to pay her way. She writes and sings her own music. 

We had lunch in the building Martha first walked into, thinking it was the laundry, then went to the grocery store. In front sat the girl I met in the laundry, playing her guitar. She was quite good. I smiled and told her so and put a 20 in her open guitar case. As I walked past, she quickly got up and removed the 20. 

Oar House

Back at camp we put the laundry away and made the beds. Then I took a good 1-hour nap. After dinner we watched an episode of Jack Ryan Martha had downloaded.

Hike Manito Miikana

August 26, 2025

46 degrees at 6:00 am, 72 high

Martha woke up sneezing with a sore throat, but by 11:00 she was ready to go on the Manito Miikana hike, a one-hour hike out to a lookout. We smiled when Luis told us there are lots of roots. Everywhere we have been has lots of roots, but this trail took it to another level. Once again, whoever builds these steps and walks is a master, making it so much easier. 

The hike ended at a platform overlooking Lake Superior with Pulpwood Harbor on one side of the peninsula and three more beaches on the other. 

It is gorgeous with such clear, blue water seldom seen. We talked to a couple from New Foundland. We complimented them on their beautiful and friendly country.

There are more incredible things to see here, but one would need to backpack and camp to see them. The Coastal Trail starts or ends here and goes south. 6.5 km south the Mdaabii Miikna Trail goes off to the coast, following it for 7km before looping back. It is about 12.5km, but you have to walk 7.6 km just to get there. No doubt it would be a fun 2-3 day hike.

If you don’t take the loop but continue straight on the Coastal Trail, you get to cross a suspension bridge on the White River, then another 1.8 km to Hook Falls. Of course you could kayak or canoe it all, with campsites for those who travel. by water. It would be great fun.

Hike Bimose Kinoomagewnan

August 25, 2025 

After a rainy day yesterday, Monday was beautiful, sunny day. I was groggy, but felt like I was on the mend. The cold is still in my chest, so my breathing isn’t so good, so we opted for a 2-hour hike around Halfway Lake, known as Bimose Kinoomagewnan. 

It is a beautiful hike with lots of ups and downs, and along granite ridge-lines overlooking the lake. Someone went to great effort building steps with handrails, little bridges over creeks and across gaps between the rocks. Sometimes we couldn’t pick up the trail until we saw a wooden walk. We remarked that it could have been marked better, but looking back, it made it more interesting. 

Signs along the way told us many of the beliefs of the Biigtigong and Netmizaaggamig people who have lived here for centuries, and play a big role in the park. I was taking a picture when I heard Martha scream. I hurried to the edge of the woods where she stood with her hands over her mouth. She said two birds flew out of a tree, making lots of noise. Grouse. It’s part of their defense mechanism. Now she has seen a bobcat and two grouse, although the view of the grouse was brief before they were gone. 

We liked this hike around a pretty lake surrounded by unique walls of granite. The trail is well-maintained, and all the wooden steps and bridges adding to the allure. 

After lunch, I had another nap while Martha went to the Visitor’s Center to get emails and messages. With a slight burst of energy, I showered and built a fire, sitting in the sun and staring into the flames. The high was about 66 degrees and breezy. Young families and groups made a steady trip to the beaches. there are actually four coves with sandy beaches. Dressed in bathing suits, they pulled their wagons with their beach gear, laughing and chatting along the way. And there I was sitting by a roaring fire, dressed in blue jeans, sweatshirt and a hat. 

Martha made a foil wrap with ham, potatoes and vegetables and cooked it over the fire. 

Sick Day

August 24, 2025 

It rained early and then let up. Someone said there was a two-hour window without rain, so we set off on a hike our neighbor, Mike, recommended. “Go down to the beach, climb the stairs and enjoy the view.” We set out to the beach, turning left and up some stair to a trail. 

I was moving mighty slowly, but when I could see the rains coming across Lake Superior, I quickened my pace. The views were beautiful with pounding waves hitting the beach and splashing high off the rocks. It was a different look for Gitchigoumi. 

Back at the trailer, I took the second nap of the day before getting up for lunch, then another nap after lunch. It rained hard all afternoon. Amazingly, I slept all night – 9 hours!

Move to Hattie Cove in Pukaskwa National Park

August 23, 2025 

We were pretty efficient getting ready, and were soon out on the Trans Canada Highway. It was cloudy with some fog, but few were on the road this morning. I was happy to get behind a good tractor-trailer driver. He was maintaining a sensible speed, so I stayed well-behind, and kept looking for moose crossing the road.

The fog got a little worse, and it started raining hard. the truck put his emergency lights on, so I did the same. I could barely see him while he slowed down. Then it stopped raining for a bit, then started again. My truck driver pulled over in an unlikely spot. I couldn’t do much, but pass and go on in those conditions, but I wondered what had happened. 

The skies cleared, and Martha found Robin’s Donuts, so we stopped for egg sandwiches and coffee. With two people working behind the counter, they were busy. We wondered what all these people were doing. Obviously some were working, but Martha asked 6 guys at the table next to us if they were here for work or fun. “Fishing,” one said with a smile. It was a fly-in to a lake with Walleye and Pike. 

We only had an hour left to go, and we pulled in at 10:30. “Drive around and choose an empty site,” she said. We loaded a bag of firewood and headed off. Passing up one spot, we thought we should take the next, and it turned out to be a good one. With some practice, we have gotten better at backing into a site. 

We set up and had lunch. I finished the excellent chicken and rice soup from the Witches Brew in Sault Ste. Marie, while Martha finished up the chili she had made. Then I took a 1-hour nap – out like a light. 

I got up with a spark of energy and built a fire. I spoke to Mike across the way in an Airstream. We exchanged greetings and I asked how long he had been here. “Since May’” he said. He said he moves every 15 days. He said this is the jewel of Canadian parks! 

Sitting by the fire in the sun felt good. It’s an iron fireplace unlike any I have seen, small with a flat cover about 2/3rds the way toward the back. A grill hinges down from that to cover the front. There are slots on the sides to draw air to the fire, and a cutout on the front side so you can see; It also serves to send the heat out the front. It resembles a wood stove and works great.

Does this chair belong to David Gordon Sutton??

We enjoyed it until rain drove us in. We must have had 20 changes in weather. It rained, then blue sky everywhere, then the clouds returned, some rain, blue sky, wind blowing, calm.

We walked down to the Visitor’s Center to get WIFI. There is no cell service here, so many were gathered . Our neighbors across the street came up to say hi. Luis and Anna are from Puerta Vallarta. They are very nice, and have been on the road for two years. They are heading to Vancouver next. 

It is a beautiful spot behind the Visitor’s Center. It sits on a long, narrow bay, called Hattie Cove. There were warnings about an algae bloom where they usually launch canoes, but it is restricted now.

Noisy Bay Hike

August 21, 2025 

It was a beautiful sunny morning. Still sore from previous hikes, it was just too nice a day to sit around. We opted for Noisy Bay, not too far from us. It is a 3-mile out-and-back hike rated moderate that takes from 1.5-3 hours. There is a 500’ elevation change. 

Like our other hikes, you need to watch every step. Look up and you are likely to trip, and one stretch goes over a boulder field. The forest is pretty, and soon the trail met up with a rushing stream. After the boulder field, we came out on Noisy Bay. It is a round-rock beach with the rushing river emptying into the bay, thus the name. 

Like all of our views of Lake Superior, the water was crystal clear. It is a beautiful spot with no boats in sight. We sat for a bit before heading back. For us, it was an hour in and an hour back out. I was soaked in sweat when we got to the car. It was about 75 degrees with a lot of humidity. 

Back at camp we had to move sites for the second time here, but we were pretty efficient with it, and we like our new site. We had lunch and Martha took the kayak out for a spin. I was going after her, but we had started a wash, so I went up to move them to the dryer. We had talked to nice fellow when we loaded the wash. On my way back up, I passed him, and he said he had moved ours to the dryer since  there was a little time left on the dryer. Nice!

I set up the Cobb Cooker and started the charcoal while Martha fixed a cube steak with cut up potatoes and peas wrapped in foil. It was very good and made for easy cleanup. 

In keeping with signs on the trails, our chipmunk left footprints and droppings on our picnic table..

Kayak Rabbit Blanket Lake

August 20, 2025 

A couple of campsites up, I talked to a nice gentleman with a cool bike. Some people think I am crazy to camp and travel with an Airstream. Maybe, but it’s a whole different level when one travels on a motorcycle, carrying a tent, sleeping bag, rain gear, food and more. Wearing a Dalhousie University shirt, he said he used to ride dirt bikes, and this bike is in between a dirt bike and a road bike. 

It has five different modes; tour, urban, gravel, off-road, user-1, user-2. It has cruise control and even CarPlay. He had a bracket for his phone, but there is also a computer screen showing his route. He said bikes like this are developed for a race in Europe. Very cool indeed!

We got the kayak down and I went fishing on Rabbit Blanket Lake for a couple of hours. No luck after trying 5 trout spinning lures and a beetle spin. It is a shallow lake with cool water, but it has a lot of grass in it. In Virginia I consider grass as a sign of too much fertilizer in a stream, but that is not likely here. Martha had bought a rod holder for me, which fit into a slot on either side of the boat. I even tried trolling with the rod in the holder.

I turned it over to Martha, who took it for a spin around the lake, After all this walking, it felt good to do something different, and it is a pretty lake in a province that has 250,000 lakes, accounting for 20% of the world’s fresh water supply!

Agawa Rock Pictographs

August 19, 2025 

It was a cloudy day and barely misting rain as we set out to see some places along the way back to Agawa Pictographs. We were warned at the Visitor’s Center not to go if there were strong winds or rain as you have to walk out on a ledge that slopes to the water in order to see the pictographs on granite walls.

We made two stops on the Sand River, first to an impressive waterfall/rapid. Walking out on huge rocks to get a better view of the rapids, we saw a father and his son and daughter fishing the pool below. The young girl had a backlash and had taken her Zebco reel apart to fix it. She had obviously done this before, as she soon put the reel back together and was back in the game. Her brother said he had caught two small fish.

Going back to the car, we drove across the bridge and turned on a gravel road that would take us above all those falls, which was probably a half mile long. A sign warned us of a winding, rough road ahead. It wasn’t so bad except for tree limbs brushing the truck and a couple of whacks on the kayak on top of the truck.

Parking the truck, we followed a trail leading to the river. It was a beautiful spot with calm, deep, pristine water to the right and the start of the rapids to the left. A large, dead tree rested on the boulders beside the rapid, reming one of the power this river can have. A fish rose regularly at the far corner, and one across from us. We saw someone hiking the trail on the other side. 

Sand River above the falls
Sand River Chute
Sand River

Back on 17, we stopped at Katherine Cove, a popular, sand beach. We decided it was a good place for lunch. Walking east along the beach, through some trees we came to a huge rock outcrop. Four people sat individually in silence, soaking up the view. Not wanting to disturb them, we returned to the beach and sat at a convenient picnic table. 

One of the people we saw on the rock walked in front of us with a very large pack on his back. I asked if this was the Coastal Trail, and he said it was. He had walked all of it in stretches, and was going to do several days on this part. We had read some of it was quite difficult, but he just smiled, saying it was a little difficult when the rocks were wet and slippery this morning. Off he went along the beach and into the woods where a sign marked the way. All of the trails we have walked have been well-marked. 

Coastal Trail hiker

We stopped at another Visitor’s Center. A nice lady helped us, telling us how canoes and kayaks were stored at different lakes. You would pay there and proceed to the lake and take a canoe. She said she was not a fisher, but did give us some good suggestions,

Next we drove 7km up a well-maintained road to Mijinemungshing Lake. We figured we would have the place all to ourselves, as it was spitting rain again…and it was Tuesday. The parking lot was full! Well, there were about 10 cars there. As we walked down to the lake we passed another couple walking up, so we weren’t the only ones just coming to see. 

The canoe racks were on the left of a circle that allowed for unloading boats and gear. A couple was doing just that. We asked what their plans were. They were going out for three nights. Like many areas in Ontario, there is a chain of lakes joined by portages. Unlike our backpacking friend, they probably loaded 175 pounds of gear into their own canoe. You could tell they did this regularly as they were very efficient. They said they hoped to catch walleye, pike and lake trout.

We were bundled up in long pants, shirts and raincoats. He had on shorts and a light rain jacket saying, “Well it’s only supposed to be like this today, and it’s a very light rain.” We wished them well. They were very excited to get going. There are campsites all along these routed all through the park. You just have to sign up for them.

Then on to the featured attraction, Agawa Pictographs. Painted by the Ojibwa Indians long ago, they have survived rain, ice and waves brought by storms. The .5 mile walk passes through a wide slot canyon between sheer vertical granite walls. Another way down was really a slot with a boulder hanging between the walls. The Coastal Trail passes by the top of the trail.

Agawa Pictographs

The trail itself is unique. Then climbing out to the 25 degree sloped ledge is interesting. Huge blocks of rock that have fallen off the walls have such straight sides one would think they were cut. Some are seen in the clear water. They don’t allow pictures, partly because it is a sacred site of the Ojibwa, and partly because the ledge is dangerous. Backing up a half step would be all it would take to fall. 

Pictographs always make me wonder. How were they done? What kind of ink holds up in those conditions for that long? What is the meaning of some of the strange figures? You might ask why this difficult spot, but it is a perfect mural. Was the ledge different in those days? I don’t know, but it is a very cool place.

Wawa, Ontario

August 18, 2025, 48 deg. low, 68 high

It was an errands day. We needed propane, groceries, wine, DEF and a sweatshirt for Greg, who foolishly did not bring a long-sleeve fleece. I always carry my phone when walking through a campground. I love to see how setup, especially with tents and tarps.

It is such a beautiful drive to Wawa, we didn’t mind the 30-minute ride. The first stop was propane. Martha went in the office to pay $38 for a 30 gallon tank. A nice man came to meet me and took the tank to an open, rectangular building to fill it. A bunch of heavy-duty tanks lined the walls. The tank they stored the propane in was very big. It looked like a gas pump on the other side of a circle around the storage tank. A man was talking to the driver of semi delivering gas. 

The Wawa goose (MBW)

The man helping me said the valve needs to be replaced, but he hadn’t read the date before he filled it. No doubt both tanks need that. This is a busy place with all kinds of stuff I couldn’t identify. Wawa, the outpost supplier to a vast region of lakes, rivers and gravel roads. The longest gravel road in Ontario is the NORT or Northern Ontario Resource Trail from Pickle Lake to Windigo Lake. It is 281km long and is maintained year-round! Martha might not want to live here, but Wawa is a vital resource town.

Next to Canadian Tire for DEF, fire starters and a jacket. I could have spent a couple of hours in that store. It has everything! Hunting and fishing gear, lures, waders, DEF, oils, tools, camping stuff, everything! I asked a man where the DEF was and he got off his ladder, led me to it and put it in my cart. 

On to the liquor store, the LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario). After collecting a few things, including a bottle of Polish beer, we talked to the check-out lady. Somehow we got to fishing. She and her husband just returned from a fly-in fishing trip up north where they caught northern pike, walleye and Lake Trout. I asked if the steelhead were running yet, and she said not yet, but the salmon were gathering outside Old Woman Bay. “What king of salmon?”, I asked. “Chinook, big chinook,” she said spreading her arms to 3’. 

Chinook and coho salmon were introduced to the Great Lakes and have done well. They don’t run to the ocean any more, as they are blocked by the narrow, shallow St. Mary’s River. I asked about brook trout, and she said, “Some people catch specs (speckled trout) on the Old Woman.” 

With no suitable sweatshirt found, I stopped at Young’s General Store. Martha was getting tired, and we had groceries that needed to be put in the freezer, so I made a quick trip. I found a suitable hooded sweatshirt with WAWA on the front and went up front to pay. With a quick look around, it is one of those old stores where it is fun to look around. Martha had said she need new Minitonka shoes, and they had a whole wall of them.

We grabbed a quick sandwich, cleaned up and hooked up to move to a different site. We will have to move once more before we leave, as this is a busy campground right next to the Trans-Canada Highway. It’s a pull-through right next to the campground road. It is hard to beat our last site where bears and foxes poop.

At 2:30 Martha suggested we go to Old Woman Bay where she could sit on the beach and read a book while I fish up the river. Always good to get in a couple hours fishing, so I agreed. By the time I put my waders and boots on, sorted out some flies in my vest, put my rod and reel together, it was 3:15. I knew I didn’t have long, so I hurried to the river. It was too shallow for steelhead to run. I remembered from our last trip that they will gather in the bay waiting for the rains to fill the river.

The Old Woman’s face at the end of the mountain

I tried a coachman for two pools and switched to hopper for two pools, then to a nymph for two pools, then back to the coachman. I had gotten two little bumps with the coachman earlier, and there were two beautiful runs around the corner from the bridge. I cast three times into one pool before looking ahead for my next spot when I got a decant strike, but I missed. It was 5:00, and I knew I should get back. The water was cold enough and perfectly clear. It’s a beautiful place to spend a day fishing. If I get the chance, I will bring water, some snacks and a different reel with floating line.

Nokomis Trail

August 17, 2025

August 17, 2025 

47 degree low; high 66

I went outside at 4am to see the stars and took 4 iPhone pictures while lying on the picnic table. I have no idea what this is.

We were sore and tired from hiking, but it was going to be a sunny day in the 60’s – perfect for a hike. Martha made a hearty breakfast scramble with eggs, bacon, onions, peppers and left over french fries and toast. 

I glanced up and saw a beautiful red fox trotting past the trailer, up a little bank and stopped to poop. I quickly grabbed my phone, but he was gone. What’s with the pooping on our site?

We set off to the Nakomis Trail at Old Woman Bay. Some of you with great memories may recall that Nakomis was Hiawatha’s grandmother, who raised him. 

From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nokomis

Nokomis is the name of Nanabozho‘s grandmother in the Ojibwe traditional stories and was the name of Hiawatha‘s grandmother in Henry Wadsworth Longfellow‘s poem, The Song of Hiawatha, which is a re-telling of the Nanabozho stories. Nokomis is an important character in the poem, mentioned in the familiar lines:

By the shores of Gitche Gumee,

By the shining Big-Seawater

Stood the wigwam of Nokomis

Daughter of the moon Nokomis.

Dark behind it rose the forest

Rose the black and gloomy pine-trees

Rose the firs with cones upon them

Bright before it beat the water

Beat the clear and sunny water

Beat the shining Big-Sea-Water.

According to the poem, From the full moon fell Nokomis/Fell the beautiful Nokomis. She bears a daughter, Wenonah. Despite Nokomis’ warnings, Wenonah allows herself to be seduced by the West-Wind, Mudjekeewis, Till she bore a son in sorrow/Bore a son of love and sorrow/Thus was born my Hiawatha.

Abandoned by the heartless Mudjekeewis, Wenonah dies in childbirth, leaving Hiawatha to be raised by Nokomis. The wrinkled old Nokomis/Nursed the little Hiawatha and educates him.

From https://www.flickriver.com/photos/snuffy/253269079/

The Nokomis Trail is a 3 mile loop rated moderate taking 1.5 – 3 hours. We figured we could walk 3 miles. The clue was the 3 hours. It is a loop trail taking you up a mountain to beautiful views of Old Woman Bay. We walked it counter-clockwise, which proved to be a good guess. Starting the hike was a round-rock trail through a pretty forest, but you had to stop to look around. There was a lot of reindeer lichen, which woodland caribou love to eat. Unfortunately, they are no longer here, as the wolves and humans have taken their toll. 

The path changed to dirt for a steady climb, then to rocks until we climbed to the top for an outlook on a huge boulder. We could see Old Woman Bay, the river and the Trans-Canada highway. On the way down there were two more overlooks and places that looked like filming of “The Last of the Mohicans.”  The trail turned very steep going down, so we had to turn around like climbing down a ladder. We were coming down a long, steep stretch and I took a fall. I guess it is part of getting older, but all along I thought about all those hard, sharp rocks and the damage they could do if you slipped or fell. I was coming down, almost to the bottom when Martha reversed her direction. Trying not to run into her, I took a bad step and tumbled to land on my back. Very fortunately, there was no damage. My backpack saved me as there was a sharp rock underneath it. Whew!

I must say I admire the Canadian way of “swim at your own risk.” Hike at your own risk, look over a waterfall at your own risk, or just no sign at all, but you go at your own risk. I like that.

We took 2.5 hours to do the hike, including stops at all the overlook and 10 minutes for Martha to retrieve my hat after I fell. Martha rated the hike a 3.5/5.0 because of all the rocks, but all the young people just frolicked up and down the mountain, and the views are spectacular. A couple of young guys greeted us at the first overlook and Martha said, “I’ll trade you my legs for yours,” and one replied, “I’ll trade for your wisdom.” That brought a smile to her face. We saw our first snake on the trail, but it was going too fast to identify it.

I could have fished the lake in Rabbit Blanket, but the wind was blowing pretty good and I had no legs to hike down the river. Maybe tomorrow.

error: Content is protected !!