Category: Lake Superior

Lake Superior, Ontario, Pukaskwa to Nipigon, Ontario, Terrace Bay

Move to Sleeping Giant Provincial Park

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August 29, 2025 

39 degrees at 5:00 am

We both have the cold now, and it’s one of those that stay with your for a while. After six days here, we are about out of fresh water, although you can refill in front of the shower house. 

The 3.5 hour drive from Pukaskwa and Nipigon is one of the prettiest in America. Winding through small mountains of green forest with lakes on one side and spectacular views of Lake Superior on the other. Islands break up the expanse of the great lake with mountains bordering it. The Trans-Canada Highway crosses many beautiful creeks, streams and rivers.

In Terrace Bay, we stopped in what I thought was Costa’s Grocery, but it was around the corner. Asking about Tony Costa, who was so nice to us 12 years ago, the young cashier said he had passed away, and the family has moved to Thunder Bay.

Looking for a nice spot to eat lunch, we cautiously drove down a winding road to the beach. You never know when pulling the Airstream if you will be stuck, not able to turn around. Luckily it was a large parking lot. We made sandwiches and walked out to Adirondack chairs along a boardwalk overlooking a lovely beach.

A retired policeman struck up a conversation telling us about the history of Terrace Bay and how the main industry has suffered. Then on to telling us about the shooting in Minneapolis, which we hadn’t heard about. A lady stopped behind us as she heard the conversation. That is her home town, so she added to the news.

We walked out to the beach and heard someone calling, “Is that your Airstream?” Four people at a picnic table waved, so we walked over. Glancing at the parking lot, there were now three 25’ Airstreams. We exchanged travel stories, and they highly recommended seeing Fort William in Thunder Bay. We said we had best get on the road and said our goodbyes.

At Nipigon, we stopped at an overlook just past the iconic Nipigon Bridge. There was a tall tower to see the river. A bench commemorated the largest Brook Trout caught in the river. I didn’t measure, but it was well over 30″

After Nipigon, the road became more busy. It is four lanes in some places, and there is serious construction to extend it. It’s Labor Day Weekend, so many are on the road. 

We turned at the top of Thunder Bay on 587south for 30 minutes on a bumpy road to the campground. It is a huge campground as there are lots of things to do here, but at first we missed our site in Pukaskwa.

Bimose Kinoomagewnan, Pukaskwa National Park, Lake Superior, Ontario, Pukaskwa National Park

Hike Bimose Kinoomagewnan

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August 25, 2025 

After a rainy day yesterday, Monday was beautiful, sunny day. I was groggy, but felt like I was on the mend. The cold is still in my chest, so my breathing isn’t so good, so we opted for a 2-hour hike around Halfway Lake, known as Bimose Kinoomagewnan. 

It is a beautiful hike with lots of ups and downs, and along granite ridge-lines overlooking the lake. Someone went to great effort building steps with handrails, little bridges over creeks and across gaps between the rocks. Sometimes we couldn’t pick up the trail until we saw a wooden walk. We remarked that it could have been marked better, but looking back, it made it more interesting. 

Signs along the way told us many of the beliefs of the Biigtigong and Netmizaaggamig people who have lived here for centuries, and play a big role in the park. I was taking a picture when I heard Martha scream. I hurried to the edge of the woods where she stood with her hands over her mouth. She said two birds flew out of a tree, making lots of noise. Grouse. It’s part of their defense mechanism. Now she has seen a bobcat and two grouse, although the view of the grouse was brief before they were gone. 

We liked this hike around a pretty lake surrounded by unique walls of granite. The trail is well-maintained, and all the wooden steps and bridges adding to the allure. 

After lunch, I had another nap while Martha went to the Visitor’s Center to get emails and messages. With a slight burst of energy, I showered and built a fire, sitting in the sun and staring into the flames. The high was about 66 degrees and breezy. Young families and groups made a steady trip to the beaches. there are actually four coves with sandy beaches. Dressed in bathing suits, they pulled their wagons with their beach gear, laughing and chatting along the way. And there I was sitting by a roaring fire, dressed in blue jeans, sweatshirt and a hat. 

Martha made a foil wrap with ham, potatoes and vegetables and cooked it over the fire. 

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