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Wednesday afternoon, July 31, 2019
After lunch, we moved the trailer to work on our persistent leak. Backing the truck up close, I can climb up on the truck tool box, then up the canoe rack and get on the roof. I removed all the duct tape and redid that area with RV sealing tape that Martha brought. Surely that would fix it.
Then we drove to L’Anse au Meadows where Leif Erikson landed and spent a winter. It is a UNESCO site and has a great visitor’s center. There is a very cool rebuilding of the village. This is all the way at the top of Newfoundland in a beautiful meadow with a shallow, protected cove. The Vikings had written about sailing the Labrador coast, describing its long, sandy beaches and endless forests.
Back at camp we showered, built a nice fire in the solo stove, had dinner and watched a cooking show on DVD.
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Monday, July 29, 2019
It was a three-hour drive along the beautiful west coast of Newfoundland. The only road north travels right on the coast much of the way. We stopped for lunch in a church parking lot. We arrived at the Seaside RV Park office as howling winds and heavy rain started. Several people parked behind the office, and one, big heavy-duty camper parked behind a shed. We asked the young lady in the office if we would be safe out front by the ocean, and she looked at us like we were crazy. This is Newfoundland where the winds blow and the wind-stunted Tuckamore trees grow.
Waiting for the rains to slow, we went grocery shopping, toured the town and had a very nice dinner at Anchor Cafe. Seafood chowder 9.0, seafood tacos 10.0, fish and chips 8.5. couldn’t eat it all.
By the time we went to bed, the winds died down a bit, but still very blowy. Our wounded ceiling dripped water into a pot all night. Seaside RV Park is right on the ocean with a great view, interesting shower/bathroom that is unisex, good hookups 8.4.
Saturday, July 27, 2019
There is a great overlook of Bonne Bay, where we sat in Adirondack chairs in the morning, watching for whales. There is a beach next to the dock, where people go for a swim.
We went up to the beautiful, modern visitor’s center for some WIFI, but the speeds were very slow. I could upload a picture every 3 minutes. We had taken the tour of the center yesterday, and it explains the area quite well, but to learn more, we went up to the Tablelands for a geology lecture at 10:00.
We were thrilled to see our guide from a previous lecture at Green Point, Chris Rohrback. She is a geologist, who has a great way of simplifying complex things. Gros Morne was made a national park in 1970’s to protect it’s beauty. Later a geologist, whose name escapes me, studied the area finding it so unique that he developed plate tectonics theory.
At the Green Point site there is a walled cliff of rock that is turned up on end when two plates pushed up. Usually these are horizontal, but the verticality of this spot makes it so different. First the point is covered with big, round boulders, plowed here by glaciers. All the different layers of shale (mud), limestone, sandstone and a conglomerate, like aggregate. Because of these studies, Gros Morne was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
At Tablelands, this desert-like area was the Earth’s Mantle pushed up. It is composed of cadmium, cobalt, chromium and other toxic metals, so no vegetation grows here. Well, some does, but very little. Across the U-shaped valley is another mountain composed of sediment, so there is plenty of growth, and a beautiful trout stream runs through it. The U-shaped valley was caused by glaciers, one 500,000 years ago and one 10,000 years ago. Each left a line of boulders like bathtub rings along the sides.
After an hour and a half talk, we had a 30-minute walk back to the car. We drove to Trout River, having heard of a good restaurant there. first we drove through Trout River Campground to check it out. There was a great view of Little Trout River Pond.
We found Seaside Restaurant and enjoyed a good meal of Scallops, salad, seafood chowder, fish sandwich and Partridge berry pie.
We were tired, but wanted to do at least part of the Green Garden Hike, which can be 9km or all day, and is rated moderate. You have to earn your keep in Gros Morne. It is a long, rather boring hike across a small mountain and down the other side down to the ocean. There are rocks and many stairs along the way. It took us an hour and a half to get there.
Finally breaking out to a cliff overlooking the ocean and beach, the views were spectacular. Martha sat on a picnic table while I explored for a short time. We knew we had a 2-hour hike, mostly uphill, to get out, so we didn’t want to stay long.
There are natural meadows along the cliff. I was surprised to see lots of poop. This grassy area must attract lots of moose in the evening and maybe caribou. There are campsites along the coast, and I can see why you would like to stay here a while, hiking the beautiful coast. I would have to be younger to carry a 35-pound pack down here, but it would sure be fun.
On the way back up, we passed a young couple with three small kids. How they were going to manage getting them back up that mountain concerned us. We were exhausted by the time we got back to the top, and rested at a platform with bench seats. We talked with a family who had just done the same hike. They were from Corner Brook and had a cabin near here, where they would stay two weeks.
After a quick dinner and an episode of a cooking show, we were soon asleep. Of course our neighbors had a Saturday night party that went on until 12:00. I closed the window and stuffed my ears with tissue.