August 19, 2025
It was a cloudy day and barely misting rain as we set out to see some places along the way back to Agawa Pictographs. We were warned at the Visitor’s Center not to go if there were strong winds or rain as you have to walk out on a ledge that slopes to the water in order to see the pictographs on granite walls.
We made two stops on the Sand River, first to an impressive waterfall/rapid. Walking out on huge rocks to get a better view of the rapids, we saw a father and his son and daughter fishing the pool below. The young girl had a backlash and had taken her Zebco reel apart to fix it. She had obviously done this before, as she soon put the reel back together and was back in the game. Her brother said he had caught two small fish.
Going back to the car, we drove across the bridge and turned on a gravel road that would take us above all those falls, which was probably a half mile long. A sign warned us of a winding, rough road ahead. It wasn’t so bad except for tree limbs brushing the truck and a couple of whacks on the kayak on top of the truck.
Parking the truck, we followed a trail leading to the river. It was a beautiful spot with calm, deep, pristine water to the right and the start of the rapids to the left. A large, dead tree rested on the boulders beside the rapid, reming one of the power this river can have. A fish rose regularly at the far corner, and one across from us. We saw someone hiking the trail on the other side.
Back on 17, we stopped at Katherine Cove, a popular, sand beach. We decided it was a good place for lunch. Walking east along the beach, through some trees we came to a huge rock outcrop. Four people sat individually in silence, soaking up the view. Not wanting to disturb them, we returned to the beach and sat at a convenient picnic table.
One of the people we saw on the rock walked in front of us with a very large pack on his back. I asked if this was the Coastal Trail, and he said it was. He had walked all of it in stretches, and was going to do several days on this part. We had read some of it was quite difficult, but he just smiled, saying it was a little difficult when the rocks were wet and slippery this morning. Off he went along the beach and into the woods where a sign marked the way. All of the trails we have walked have been well-marked.
We stopped at another Visitor’s Center. A nice lady helped us, telling us how canoes and kayaks were stored at different lakes. You would pay there and proceed to the lake and take a canoe. She said she was not a fisher, but did give us some good suggestions,
Next we drove 7km up a well-maintained road to Mijinemungshing Lake. We figured we would have the place all to ourselves, as it was spitting rain again…and it was Tuesday. The parking lot was full! Well, there were about 10 cars there. As we walked down to the lake we passed another couple walking up, so we weren’t the only ones just coming to see.
The canoe racks were on the left of a circle that allowed for unloading boats and gear. A couple was doing just that. We asked what their plans were. They were going out for three nights. Like many areas in Ontario, there is a chain of lakes joined by portages. Unlike our backpacking friend, they probably loaded 175 pounds of gear into their own canoe. You could tell they did this regularly as they were very efficient. They said they hoped to catch walleye, pike and lake trout.
We were bundled up in long pants, shirts and raincoats. He had on shorts and a light rain jacket saying, “Well it’s only supposed to be like this today, and it’s a very light rain.” We wished them well. They were very excited to get going. There are campsites all along these routed all through the park. You just have to sign up for them.
Then on to the featured attraction, Agawa Pictographs. Painted by the Ojibwa Indians long ago, they have survived rain, ice and waves brought by storms. The .5 mile walk passes through a wide slot canyon between sheer vertical granite walls. Another way down was really a slot with a boulder hanging between the walls. The Coastal Trail passes by the top of the trail.
The trail itself is unique. Then climbing out to the 25 degree sloped ledge is interesting. Huge blocks of rock that have fallen off the walls have such straight sides one would think they were cut. Some are seen in the clear water. They don’t allow pictures, partly because it is a sacred site of the Ojibwa, and partly because the ledge is dangerous. Backing up a half step would be all it would take to fall.
Pictographs always make me wonder. How were they done? What kind of ink holds up in those conditions for that long? What is the meaning of some of the strange figures? You might ask why this difficult spot, but it is a perfect mural. Was the ledge different in those days? I don’t know, but it is a very cool place.
