Category: Ontario

Pancake Bay Provincial Park

We did two loads of laundry at the Sault Ste. Marie KOA before hooking up. Bill and Joan have everything you could ever need at this campground, including a trailer wash, and it’s all in top shape. We did our grocery shopping yesterday, and filled up with gas. It’s not like we are going into the wilderness, but we will be in provincial parks for the next five weeks. 

It is only 40 miles to Pancake Bay Provincial Park, and check in isn’t until 2:00, but first a visit to McCauley’s Motel in Havilland Bay. We were lucky to get right through the construction area, which saved us 30 minutes. Although I paid $8 for a little magazine for the “Lake Superior Circle Tour,” it lacks in detail. We passed beautiful Chippawa Waterfall right beside the road with no turnout or warning. Then there was a fabulous view of Lake Superior with mountains in the background, but there was no scenic overlook. I will have to be more alert and quicker on our next drive.

Pulling into McCauley’s Motel, so many memories came back to me. Kelly had seen a fishing show on TV where Ady was advising the fishermen where to go. We parked next to the spot Ady had let us camp for 5 days for free. We had a very large decal made by Mike Chanail with “Fish Across Canada” below. Ady said it would be good advertising for him. It was a famous fly shop, run by one of the great characters and gentlemen of fishing. He had it all; maybe a hundred rods hanging from the ceiling, a huge supply of flies that he tied himself (“What else am I going to do in winter?”), a whole wall of fly-tying materials, reels and so much more. It was just fun to wander up and down the isles. Kelly describes this well in his book, If the Fish are Bit’n, which you may still be able to find on Amazon. Ady helped us so much, telling us where to go and what to use. Later on the trip, we would call him to tell him where we were and what we were doing. 

We knew Ady had passed away, but with some vestige of hope, we walked toward the building. A lady called out to us, “Can I help you?” She was very nice, telling us the motel and all had changed three times just since she had worked there 8 years ago. The fly shop was now part of the motel, where groups could stay. The restaurant was only open for dinner, but is very busy, and the motel stays booked all the time. She didn’t know anything about Ady or the fly shop or where everything went. I gave her (Theresa) my card in case she heard anything about where Ady’s merchandise went. She said two McCauley sisters still lived in town, so she would ask around. She suggested a place for lunch as we headed out. Martha took a picture of Theresa and me wearing my treasured Misty Mountain Fly Shop hat.

We stopped at Theresa’s recommended place, The Voyageur’s General Store, and ordered whitefish tacos, which were delicious, and came with a huge order of French fries. Next door we bought one of their famous apple fritters. Even with splitting everything, it was more than we could eat.

It was too early to check into Pancake Bay, but we tried it anyway. A nice young lady checked us in, telling us how to get to our site. It is a huge campground, and it was full. It was full when I booked it four months ago, but I took a spot way in the back. Baking into the site, I struggled to navigate with trees blocking me in front. Finally I got to a reasonable spot only to discover a muddy place next to the trailer. We decided to put the trailer on top of the muddy spot, but that some wiggling too. 

Pancake Bay PP. Site 6. A little muddy

After setting up, we chilled for a while, then went down to the bay to see what it was all about. It was a huge 3.2 km. C-shaped, white sand beach. Kids were playing in the shallow water. One had already mastered his paddle board. People were playing corn hole and some other game where they bounce a ball off a small trampoline-like ring. With a perfect 73 degree, sunny day, many were just sunning themselves or reading a book beneath their umbrella.

We decided to walk to the point on west side of the beach. After walking 30 minutes to the point, it was clear why this was such a popular place. It is one of the prettiest beaches I have ever seen. Beautiful, soft sand with some smooth, round rocks for decoration, crystal clear water and shallow depth add up to enjoyable conditions. Shallow depths allow the water to warm in the sun, so I decided to test it. It wasn’t a hot day and the water was chilly. I came to a drop off and took the plunge. It was quite refreshing, so I did it a couple more times before wading back out. There wasn’t much wind, so I didn’t have to dry off. It all adds up to pretty perfect conditions with gorgeous scenery. 

The Goulais River

The Trans-Canada Highway (Rt. 17) crosses the Goulais River northwest of Sault Ste. Marie. The river is surrounded by The Goulais River Provincial Park, which has no facilities. Reports are that the river supports a sjstainable Brook Trout population and it is wadable. 

First step was to get a non-resident fishing license. Those of you who read the “Fish Across Canada” blog 12 years ago might recall our rants on Canadian Fishing Regulations. You have to be a Canadian lawyer to keep up with them. If you are lucky enough to fish across Canada for four months, you will find that every province is different. Every river is different. Then there are different regulations for sections of the stream.

My online license registration for Ontario asked for the usual information. Then you must buy and carry a hard card, which will be mailed to your home!?*# So I put the hard card in my basket. Next, do you want a Sport Fishing license or a Conservation license; 1-day, 8-days, 1-year. Well, I am here for 7 weeks, so I guess I need the 1-yr license. The sport fishing license allows you to keep more fish, while the conservation license allows you to keep fewer fish. Well, the taste of a wild Brook Trout made me look further.

On the Goulais River, with a Sport license you can keep 6 Brook Trout in a day, but with a Conservation license, you can only keep two, but none over 18 inches. That’s good with me – two for dinner, and I will return the other 18 to the stream. So I paid the $8 hard card fee and a $53 fishing license. The 6 fish/day license was $83. I printed the license on my amazing, little Canon printer that only gets used once a year, and it was purchased for this specific purpose 12 years ago, when we had to have a license in every province and often a special regulations permit. So this little Canon printer is stored in a hot or cold trailer, never being removed, and it printed perfectly. 

I invited Martha to join me, sure that we were going to see some beautiful country and catch a bunch of my favorite fish of them all, the mighty Brook Trout, which is also the best tasting fish. As we drove west, I decided I would stop after catching 20 fish, only keeping two. 

Four miles from the KOA traffic was stopped on the two-lane Trans-Canada highway. Road Construction. It looked like a section got totally washed out. Imagine the vast expanse of Canadian roads that are subject to snow, snow-plowing, ice and flooding. Lately, add fires to the list. Anyway, here we sat for 15 minutes while the traffic in the other lane passed us. I was reminded of someone telling us there are only two seasons in Canada, winter and road construction. 

Finally, we were through and turned on Rt. 552 that follows the river a long way. The road wove through big hills or small mountains. The river was indeed beautiful. I passed up two very pretty access points due to cabins and houses nearby. Too much pressure on the fishery, I quickly surmised. We climbed up a mountain, leaving the river way below us, and the road turned to gravel. Finally it came back down to river level with a pull out and a gorgeous waterfall, or what they call the chutes. Although we didn’t see any, the river is a popular canoeing destination. 

We found a place to park and I anxiously geared up. Martha was quick to comment that, “Kelly would be fishing by now!” True, but how would she know that? I mean i had to put waders on, put my rod and reel together, get my fishing vest and see what fly boxes were in there. Ahhh, Royal Coachmen, the perfect fly for Brook Trout. Probably wouldn’t need anything else.

I took out a chair for Martha to sit on a gravel bar and relax while I showed her how it’s done. Three trailers had what appeared to be a permanent position next to the river. I thought it was a provincial park! There was a fire pit and kids’ toys scattered around. I worked the Coachman with my 5-wt. Orvis rod. It seemed to be one of those rare days I was throwing it well. Of course I was totally unobstructed by trees or bushes as the river was 40 yards across. With no action, I worked my way across the 2-foot deep stream to the other side, working a run on the far side. Martha seemed content reading a book. It is a beautiful stream with an impressive waterfall ahead. 

Nothing. I climbed over some huge boulders to the plunging hole beneath the waterfall. For the third time, I changed flies to something that would get down. Nothing. I noticed car tracks on a gravel bar leading to a road encroached by bushes. On the gravel bar, a healthy green plant grew with beautiful blue berries. Using Picture This app, it was identified as sand cherry, mildly toxic to humans. 

So this beautiful spot is a popular destination in summer and likely in winter. I thought of 12 people coming for a weekend, catching 6 fish apiece per day! They need a new regulation for this section, and restock it. We got back in the truck and drove down to another pretty access point. I fished several flies, even a dropper nymph, but no luck. The water didn’t feel cold enough for Brook Trout – maybe years ago before all these cabins and trailers and warming temperatures.

It’s a lovely river and no doubt, a good one to float and take a swim in. Maybe another 20 miles up that gravel road we would have done better. Who knows? Back on the Trans-Canada Highway, we waited in line at the construction site – two cycles. Martha could have gotten a bike out of the back and ridden back to camp faster than I got there. Oh well, may as well get used to Canada’s two seasons. 

The Bushpilot Museum

The #1 TripAdvisor recommendation of things to do in Sault Ste. Marie is the Bushpilot Museum. I love this place, although it has changed with more emphasis on fighting fires, which is no doubt a huge issue today. 

The museum as we saw it 12 years ago, focused on individuals exploring Canada after the invention of flight. Up until then, exploration was done by canoe. That requires a level of toughness I can barely comprehend, especially in winter. When flight entered the picture, things may have gotten physically easier, but brought increased requirements of navigation and survival. Like the wild west, it took a certain breed to want to tackle immense challenges. No one is coming to get you should something go wrong.

At the entrance is a camp set up to resemble maybe a 1940’s to 1950’s fire fighting campsite. Just a basic camp was a load to carry in a small plane, and this was a well-equipped camp with a big canvas tent, axes, saws, etc. Most would have gone to hunt, fish and explore. Imagine the game in those days!

Today the focus is on fire-fighting, which has its own requirements for bravery, flying and fire-fighting skills. A good movie puts you right in the middle of the fight with all the modern communication and fire-fighting planes. Just the skills required to scoop up water from a lake, and then dump it on just the right spot, and you have to be accurate. They call it precision bombing.

The museum has many more planes than were there 12 years ago. In those days it was run more like a club. Volunteers who loved flying, history and the exploration of Canada, worked on and restored all the planes. They bragged that every one of them flies, and they were anxious to show you around. I was disappointed not to see any of those men today, but it is still the #1 thing to do in Sault Ste. Marie. You will know where it is when you drive down the street and look up to see what looks like an old plane about to land in the street.

The Boardwalk, Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario

Sunday, August 10, 2025

After four days of driving, we wanted to get out and walk. #2 on the things to do in Sault Ste Marie is the Boardwalk along St. Mary’s River that connects Lake Superior to Lake Huron. It is a busy area for Great Lakes shipping both with loading and unloading as well as locks to move ships between these lakes. 

The boardwalk is planted with beautiful flowers. Bikers, walkers and runners passed us on our walk. Passing a hydro-electric plant, we came to the locks where Kelly and I had observed people steelhead fishing. Whitefish Island has been a productive fishing area for many generations. Indian tribes came here every summer for the whitefish, netting and trapping them. 

Following the trail down to the river, chipmunks came out to greet us. A rabbit hardly looked up as we walked by. Birds flitted between bushes. A creek runs through the middle of the island, but locks and hydro-electric facilities have all but drained the flow. That didn’t stop beavers from making four dams.

Surprisingly, the river was flowing strong, much more than our last visit. There are so many fires in Canada in very dry conditions, I thought water levels would be low. I love this spot!

Not far from the KOA is a unique lunch and takeout place called The Soup Witch with fresh-squeezed lemonade, espresso, sandwiches, chili, pies and more.

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