Category: Red squirrel

Paul Kane Trail

Monday, September 8, 2025

39 deg at 4 am

I laid in bed readdressing my furnace problem. Sail switch, I decided. Was I blocking air flow with my tape? I could hear the technician I might hire, laughing at my Velcro tape job.

Moonset

On our way to hike, we stopped at the canoe launch parking lot. On a Monday, it was busy. We watched a family loading up for a week of paddling. They were all so friendly, answering all our American questions while they continued to load three canoes. The young girl had a 7-month old baby, who was smiling until I took a picture. She had a good topographic map, showing us their route for today. They have done this many times, probably since she was a baby. I asked how she finds her way. “Oh you recognize topographic features. We also have a Spot GPS, and even if you don’t have cell service, Google maps will show where you are.” This is really what this huge park is about. There are 2500 campsites on a first-come-first serve basis. The father, or grandfather, said some are great, but all are acceptable. We wished them well and walked back up the hill.

We drove across TCan 11 to the Paul Kane Trail at the top of the waterfall where Indians as well as trappers portaged around the falls. Paul Kane famously painted this spot as he traveled with the Hudson Bay Company. It was an hour hike. then we drove across the Trans Canada Highway back to Quetico and walked a while on the Pickerel Creek trail before going into the Visitors Center. A fire was going in the incredible fireplace in the center of the room. It was a pretty warm day of about 67 degrees and sunny. Still, the mood set by that unique fireplace is great. A young ranger lady greeted us with a smile.

We went downstairs to the library, sitting on a very comfortable leather couch, and perused a camping cookbook that caught our attention. There were some great tips and recipes with tantalizing pictures. Martha is a good camping cook, and she was picking up tips. 

Starving to death now, we went back upstairs and talked to two rangers beside the fire. Martha asked when the recent storm came through and did such destruction to the trees. I mean trees that were spun around 90 degrees  before being snapped off. The gentleman said a tornado came down in Quetico in July and did a lot of damage. It was a miracle that no one was hurt. They had gone around telling people to go to one of the buildings.

One gentleman did that. Later returning to his campsite, a big tree lay right on top of his tent. Trailers were damaged, but people escaped. One lady was in panic mode because trees trapped her from leaving. When rangers came and removed the trees, she gave them big hugs.

Then another event came through in August, not a tornado, but strong winds. More trees were destroyed. Their crews have been very busy, and they have contracted outside help. Volunteers for this park are amazing, clearing many of the portages and 2500 remote campsites. We bought two bundles of firewood for our last two nights here. Martha encouraged me to go fishing while she did the laundry. Sounded like a good plan to me.  

Over lunch Martha asked if I was going fishing or working on the furnace. Finally I said, the furnace. I got my tools and opened the furnace door, studying the wires and their connections, checking my before-pictures. Satisfied, I turned it on and it fired up!! OK, I guess I can go fishing.

I drove up to a spot one of the rangers had suggested. It’s a rock outcrop near a beach. There were secluded picnic tables in grassy areas with fire pits. The more I explore, the more I like this park.

The power of a storm that can splinter a tree like this

I changed lures for the tenth time when the winds picked up and it got cooler. I went back to the truck and got another shirt, sure this lure was the one. Then the thunder came and it started raining. I got back to camp just in time to help Martha fold laundry.

She made an excellent split pea and ham soup and a salad with smoked trout. 

error: Content is protected !!