Natchez, Mississippi

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My friend, Rhett Riplinger, told me Natchez is a great and interesting town, so I spent a couple of days exploring. Still I left a lot undone. I walked around downtown and along the riverwalk. Then I saw a little horse and carriage with a man standing beside it in front of the old train station. I hustled over just in time. Within a couple of minutes I realized this guy was going to be a classic, and I started the recording app on my phone. He grew up here, adding a lot of color commentary, but he knew his history…..although some may have been embellished.

There was the ‘Hanging Tree” at the court house and old jail, where paranormal stories abound. There are Clan stories. Bowie’s Tavern has an old bar where Kit Carson inscribed his name. Sam Bowie, born in Kentucky, grew up across the river, gaining fame in the “Sandbar Fight” in the middle of the Mississippi River. He was shot twice and stabbed three times, once in the sternum with a sword cane. With the sword sticking out of his chest, he grabbed his opponent’s shirt, killing him with his large sheath knife.

The Natchez Indians had settled this site on a high bluff above the “Father of Waters” for 1,000 years before the Europeans came. Probably the “Mississipians” had been there long before. When De Soto came in 1540 with 600-700 armored and mounted soldiers, the Natchez “Sun God”, Quigualtam, had heard how he had treated Indians along his journey. De Soto sent emissaries several times asking for treasures and surrender. On his last attempt, he said he was the father of the Sun and was more powerful than the chief. Quigualtam told him to prove it by drying up the river. When that didn’t happen, the Natchez chased and raided De Soto all the way to the Gulf.

The Mississippi originates in Lake Itasca in Minnesota, traveling 2300 miles to the Gulf, which makes it the third largest watershed in the world. It carries a half million pounds of sediment every day. Over the eons, it is responsible for making what is now south central United States. From “Guide to The Natchez Trace Parkway” by F. Lynne Bachleda. It remains a relatively untamed river.

Samuel Clemens spent a lot of time in Natchez. My tour guide told the story of Clemens being invited to the 1st Presbyterian Church. Before the service, he noticed the Slave Gallery upstairs. He tried to go up there to join them, but couldn’t find the way up. It was said that was one of the inspirations for “Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn”, where the kids fake their death on the river and view their funeral from the rafters. Later he was asked what he thought of heaven and hell. He said he didn’t want to comment because he had friends in both places.

Natchez was a rich town before the Civil War, with river transportation, lumber and cotton being the primary businesses. After the war, times were different. A lot of the shipping business went to New Orleans and Baton Rouge. The transition from slavery and today didn’t always go easily. I visited the Natchez Museum of African American History and Culture. You could spend the rest of your life reading all the books in that museum. I was their only visitor that afternoon, and was given a guided tour that lasted three and a half hours. I was thankful, but exhausted. History is rich here. We discussed recent issues we have had in Charlottesville, or what I call “Statue City”. They said it could have easily happened in Natchez. Diving back to camp, I couldn’t help but think of how terribly the Native Americans fared. Yet we hear little of it today.

Natchez State Park was a great place for me to stay. It was quiet with a good staff and good facilities.

  7 comments for “Natchez, Mississippi

  1. C K
    May 5, 2019 at 12:07 pm

    appreciate the post and pics – please don’t tell me that your empathy for native Americans means you will vote for Pocahontas??????

    • May 5, 2019 at 2:55 pm


  2. Billy
    May 5, 2019 at 10:27 pm

    Love the history.

  3. Willy Sydnor
    May 12, 2019 at 5:41 pm

    I am so grateful you’re taking this trip and reporting it as fully as you do. And I particularly appreciate the points of view you report on which are generally unreported. Looking forward to more of your posts.

    • May 13, 2019 at 6:56 am

      Thank you Willy. So nice to hear from you. I miss our chats 😊

  4. Nj
    July 5, 2020 at 9:43 am

    Finally someone addressing the sufferings of the native Americans!!!!!! Still suffering to this day!!! The reservations that they are required to stay on are pathetic! No help for those who suffer in silence!
    Sad. I live close to Natchez and all I see are shootings and some who are hollering racism are the racist. If you don’t want to be looked at as a whole then do the same for others. Don’t put all white peoples in the racist category just because we grew up in the south. I just happened to grow up here. My ancestors way way back down the line may have done your ancestors wrong but NOT ME!!
    I’m part Native American so does that give me the right to walk around with a chip on my shoulder?? Maybe, but there’s already to many people going that route. It’s exhausting having to hate all the time. Right??

    • July 5, 2020 at 10:53 am

      Thank you so much for your comments Nj. I do not have the words to describe Native American trials, but I think of them every day of my journeys. I often think of Lewis and Clark’s incredible journey, what they saw in 1804, how they described the land, the waters and the wildlife. They never would have made it without help from Native Americans. We have managed to muck it all up in just 216 years! God made us all different, in different tribes with different languages so we wouldn’t understand each other. It is part of our trial.

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