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Duluth to Little Sand Bay, WI

Wednesday, September 17, 2025 

L: 62; H: 77

Leaving our happy spot in Spirit Lake Marine and RV Park, we headed for Little Sand Bay in Russell, WI. to see Apostle Islands National Park. We have allotted a week to explore 21 islands in Lake Superior. I was excited for a pretty drive with rest areas right beside Lake Superior.

I got an error message on the truck: Engine power throttling back. I have had nothing but trouble since Colonial Auto replaced the catalytic converter, charging me $4,500. Martha advised me to buy a new truck, but I thought this one would go the distance. That is one of the reasons I bought a diesel. I thought it would last longer under the load of pulling the trailer. I have 152,000 miles on it, but it is not uncommon for these to go 500,000 or more. I don’t need that many, maybe another 100,000. 

We pulled over at one of those beautiful rest areas. I put in more DEF and checked the oil level, which was dirty, but OK. The coolant tank was full, but I put a little water in it. We limped on, sometimes going 55mph, but on some big hills, we got down to 8. With emergency flashers on, some cars passed us, but we were fortunate traffic wasn’t busy. 

We limped into the campground, set up, had lunch and Martha called the nice lady who had booked us into the campground, but she got a recording. She was hoping to get a recommendation for diesel repair. Then she went to work, making a list of garages and calling one, Ron’s Auto Repair, but he was retired. he referred us to Dietrich. We had minimal cell reception, so we decided to go to Dietrich Auto Repair. Typical of areas like this, he had a garage next to his house, and the yard was full of cars and trucks. He is a very nice guy, whose house had just burned, so he and his son were living in a big trailer. Listening to our problem, he directed us to “Walkie’s up on Fire Road.”

At first we tried to call him, but then decided to just drive up there. Without GPS, we would have never found it. It was a great big metal building surrounded by woods on Fire Tower Road. A friendly springer spaniel greeted us. Walkie was pushing a dead pickup into the garage with a unique tread machine with a blade on the back and a fork on the front.

Once the truck was in the shop, he smoothed the tracks with the blade, then shut it off. “How can I help you?” he asked. He listened to our story, then listed some things that could cause the problem. “Let me just take a look.”

He opened the hood and started removing the cover for the air filter. “It’s a good engine, but then GMC puts all this stuff on it – sensors and computerized stuff. It would be better without it.” Even removing the air filter was a bit complicated. He said, “Look at this little filter for that big engine. A lot of times the engine just isn’t getting enough air. I’ll order a new one and have it by 9:00 in the morning. Then we will clean this connection in front of the filter that often gets dirty. If that doesn’t do it, we will run a regen. I hate doing that because it really runs the engine hard.” he blew out the old filter and replaced it. I told him that sounded good, and we will return tomorrow at 9:30.

Oxygen sensor next to the screwdriver

There is nothing quite like watching a mechanic work on your truck. You learn how it works, where things are and you get to hear what he is thinking. Dealers seldom let you do that, saying it’s a liability issue. Or maybe they don’t want you to learn how to do things. His cousin, Walter looked on.

We drove a short distance to Bayfield to check out the cruise schedule. A nice young man told us what the schedules are and the likelihood of getting aboard on the spur of the moment. It was pretty good really, as the season is waning. The visitor’s center at the campground is closed for the season.

The little town was bustling. It reminded me of Bar Harbor 30 years ago. It was a beautiful day. People were sitting outside at restaurants and benches. Flower boxes adorned windows, and people were getting off the ferry smiling. I asked two bikers if they had a good time. The young man smiled broadly and said it was great. “Which island,” I asked. “Madeline,” he replied.

Martha had talked to Walkie’s daughter-in-law while Walkie and I were under the hood. She wanted to get him something as a thanks for his help. She said to get him some Stella Artois, so we went into a little grocery and got some. 

Back at camp, our next door camp host and her husband came over. She said the campground booking lady had called her to check on us concerning our truck problem. Brook and John were their names. She told us there are GMC dealers in Ashland and Duluth “when you get through with your guy.” 

They had the similar problem with a catalytic converter. Someone put the wrong one in, so they went to a different dealer to get it replaced, all under warranty. Then she asked if I had disconnected the battery after the treatment. Never heard that one, but rebooting is often the first thing I try with any problem. Then she pointed out the soot around my water heater. “Could be bugs in there.” Stink bugs, I thought, but I had not noticed how black it was all around the heater.

I thought about all those things as I went to sleep and when I woke up in the middle of the night.

An Afternoon at The Beach

September 1, 2025 

60 deg in the morning, 80’s in the afternoon

I went back to the beach for some cell service. It is such a great place to sit in the morning!

We drove back to the Thunder Bay Overlook. It is spectacular in any weather. This morning it was a bit cloudy. It was supposed to rain in the afternoon, so we wanted to get in a few things before it started. 

Top of the Kabeyun Trail

We walked the little nature trail near the Overlook. It took us through the woods to a pretty lake, but no wildlife were seen. The Maple Trees are turning color, and so is the Labrador Tea. 

Driving back down, we went to Pounsford Lake for lunch and maybe some fishing. The wind was blowing, and it was cloudy – not quite as inviting as our previous visit, but I was getting ready to get the kayak down when another couple came down with their big dog. They were friendly enough, but it kind of ruined the atmosphere, so we left. 

We tried Lizard Lake next, which really looked more fishy, and it was calmer. I threw a few different lures from shore with no results, but I could see some action on the surface. 

We drove back out to 17 to fill up with gas. the card reader wasn’t working, so Martha went in to pay. They do an odd thing here where you tell them what dollar value you want to spend. Martha said $75, which doesn’t do enough for a 36 gallon diesel tank, but we had enough to last us. 

It was hot – above 80 degrees – and sunny, so we went down to the beach. It’s a great beach on Lake Marie Louise, and lots of people were enjoying it. It’s pretty nice to be able to choose shade and grass to sit, or sun and sand. 

We stuck our feet in and decided we didn’t really need to go in. After sitting in the sun for a while, though, I took the plunge. It was quite refreshing.

Back at camp, as the sun went down, Martha made a big pot of chili and I started a fire. We enjoyed sitting by the fire on a beautiful evening with a little Lionel Ritchie playing. It was a good day.

Pileated Woodpecker

Hike Manito Miikana

August 26, 2025

46 degrees at 6:00 am, 72 high

Martha woke up sneezing with a sore throat, but by 11:00 she was ready to go on the Manito Miikana hike, a one-hour hike out to a lookout. We smiled when Luis told us there are lots of roots. Everywhere we have been has lots of roots, but this trail took it to another level. Once again, whoever builds these steps and walks is a master, making it so much easier. 

The hike ended at a platform overlooking Lake Superior with Pulpwood Harbor on one side of the peninsula and three more beaches on the other. 

It is gorgeous with such clear, blue water seldom seen. We talked to a couple from New Foundland. We complimented them on their beautiful and friendly country.

There are more incredible things to see here, but one would need to backpack and camp to see them. The Coastal Trail starts or ends here and goes south. 6.5 km south the Mdaabii Miikna Trail goes off to the coast, following it for 7km before looping back. It is about 12.5km, but you have to walk 7.6 km just to get there. No doubt it would be a fun 2-3 day hike.

If you don’t take the loop but continue straight on the Coastal Trail, you get to cross a suspension bridge on the White River, then another 1.8 km to Hook Falls. Of course you could kayak or canoe it all, with campsites for those who travel. by water. It would be great fun.

Sick Day

August 24, 2025 

It rained early and then let up. Someone said there was a two-hour window without rain, so we set off on a hike our neighbor, Mike, recommended. “Go down to the beach, climb the stairs and enjoy the view.” We set out to the beach, turning left and up some stair to a trail. 

I was moving mighty slowly, but when I could see the rains coming across Lake Superior, I quickened my pace. The views were beautiful with pounding waves hitting the beach and splashing high off the rocks. It was a different look for Gitchigoumi. 

Back at the trailer, I took the second nap of the day before getting up for lunch, then another nap after lunch. It rained hard all afternoon. Amazingly, I slept all night – 9 hours!

Labrador

August 6,7,8, 2024

I wanted to fish the Green River with Ron Lowry, but he said it had not been fishing well lately. After some discussion, we agreed to go after the monster Brook trout in Labrador. Actually I don’t care about big ones, but I wanted to catch a lot of them.

Some of the fishing lodges have struggled since Covid. Getting shut down for two seasons made it difficult to get up and running again, and to find staff and guides. Northern Lights Lodge on Shaw Lake and Smallwood Reservoir was highly-rated, so we booked it. 

It is quite a trip getting there. Ron was flying from Idaho, and I from Virginia. I landed in Montreal at 2:30 on Wednesday. By the time I walked the long way to customs, got through, picked up my bag and walked all the way to the other end of the airport, I was tired. Ron wouldn’t get in until 11:30, so after checking into the airport hotel, I went back down to find Pal Airlines for Thursday’s flight to Labrador City, but couldn’t find it. We would have to be there at 6:00 for a 7:30 flight we did not want to miss. Finally a nice lady pointed me to the right place.

On Thursday morning, Ron and I checked out of the hotel, walked downstairs to the airport and found Pal Airlines. It was a local, with stops in Quebec and Sept-Isles on the way to Labrador City. Two guys across the isle were also going to the lodge, this being their third year at Northern Lights Lodge.

A nice gentleman named Javier picked us up at the Wabush airport adjacent to Labrador City. He then took us to the grocery store to get any drinks or snacks we wanted, and there was a liquor store next door. Then he took us to the Two Seasons Hotel for the night. After cocktail hour, we went to the hotel restaurant, which is reported to be the best in town. It was surprisingly good, efficient and friendly. We discussed the need for a $600 deposit on the room. Javier had told us this is a big iron ore mining town. Maybe there are some cowboys that come to town and make a mess. 

On Friday morning we were to take a float plane to the lodge, but it was delayed due to weather or low ceiling. Finally we got the go-ahead and Javier took us to the dock. A tall young man weighed us and our gear before loading. Javier had bought supplies for the lodge as well. 

It was my first time on a float plane, so I was a little nervous, but I also wanted to see the fire damage. Just 10 days ago the whole town  of Labrador City, 7,412 people were evacuated due to a big fire approaching the town. There is only one road in Labrador, so they all went east. It was pretty scary. Fortunately, they were able to stop the fire before it got to the town. 

We must have gone in the opposite direction because I couldn’t see any burnt areas. Looking at all the thousands of lakes, it is a wonder a fire could spread very far. Flying north and a bit east, we saw infinite numbers of lakes or ponds. Woven in between was rocky land with black fir trees. I was surprised to see a railroad track. The Canadian Shield is a huge area of eastern Canada that was scraped of all but a thin topsoil by glaciers, leaving bedrock, boulders and round rocks polished by water, snow and ice. 

I was surprised to hear that Quebec province has more lakes that Labrador, at a half million or so, but it is also a larger province. By any measure, it is a whole lot of water and difficult land to travel. Some lakes had a house or cabin on them, especially close to Labrador City. 

After a 50 minute flight, we landed smoothly on Shaw Lake, and our pilot expertly glided next to the dock where four men helped tie the plane. As we got out we were introduced to Yves, Jimmy, Brad and Mike. They told us to go to our cabins and they would unload the plane and bring our things to the cabin.

On the lodge grounds we met Patti, with whom we had exchanged many emails and messages. Just in those blind conversations, one could tell this is a good-hearted person. She showed us to our cabin, which was very nice with two bedrooms, a bathroom, a sitting area  with a small table and a serious, iron wood-burning stove that was quite warm. That would be the only time it was used on our trip. The group from the previous week were going out on the plane as soon as our gear was unloaded. I talked with one gentleman from New Brunswick who had been coming every year for 30 years!

Once we got settled, Mike came by to see if we wanted to go fishing for a couple of hours just the get a feel for the water. On the front side of Northern Lights Lodge was Shaw lake, which is full of pike apparently. We went out back to a HUGE body of water, known as Smallwood Reservoir, that covers some 2,500 square miles behind the dam at what used to be Churchill Falls. The rivers leading into the reservoir are the Ashuanipi River and the McKenzie River. 

I don’t think we caught anything that afternoon. One major problem was we didn’t have sinking lines, so we were not getting down enough in this big water. Dinner was at 7:00, but we gathered at the lodge to see what the two Johns did. Actually one was Jon, the tall one, and one was John, who was a retired oral surgeon.

“Supper,” as Patti called it was superb, as was every meal at Northern Lights Lodge. Patti and Yves are married, and they do everything, with the help of the two guides.

Ron’s flies. We would use the streamers and Orange Bombers most

We collapsed in our beds with the windows open and the ceiling fan on low, and it wasn’t long before I was asleep. I was startled by a couple of sounds in the night, but slept well.

Ocracoke Island Tuesday

April 30, 2024

We had a relaxing morning before going to explore the beach. The wind was still blowing about 17mph, but it was warming up from the 64 degrees we woke up to. We walked out the back of our campsite and climbed the steep dune for a view of the campground and a gorgeous beach at low tide.

We walked south until we reached a sign telling us not to walk further as it was a bird nesting area. The water was cold and rough, but it was fine after the initial shock. We only saw a few people. A couple were tucked in between dunes for protection from the wind. Rarely do you find a beach this pretty with so few people on it. the island is 16 miles long, so that gives plenty of room for people to spread out.

We changed clothes and rode our bikes 3 miles into town. We turned down Lighthouse Road to find the lovely Ocracoke lighthouse that still functions. We were met by a nice guide, Marilee, who was from Virginia. She and her husband come down every year. The lighthouse was built with bricks made on the mainland and shipped over in 1823. It is the second oldest continuously functioning lighthouse in the country and can be seen 14 miles off shore. The keeper’s quarters are seen on the right.

We talked with Marilee quite a while. She told us about the restaurants and her favorites. She also told us to go the end of the road and walk through the forest to Springer’s Point. We rode to the right, finding Springer’s Nature Preserve and put our bikes in a rack. Seems like there are bike racks everywhere and it’s a good way to get around on these small streets. There is a loop trail through a pretty hammock (a stand of trees surrounded by areas of water) and out to a nice beach on Pamlico Sound. Kids were swimming and playing the shallow waters in contrast to the rough waters on the ocean today.

We rode through some of the neighborhoods before going out to Rt. 12. On Marilee’s suggestion, we went to Smacknally’s Bar and Grill for lunch, again putting our bikes in a stand. It’s all outdoor seating at Smacknally’s with views of the harbor and the boats. It was a little cool sitting in the shade with breezes off the water, so I kept moving into the sun to stay warm. It was a busy place at lunchtime, but the service was good and so was the food. I had a fish (drum) sandwich and Martha had a shrimp basket.

From their website

On the way back to the campground we stopped at the coolest bookstore, Books To Be Red. Martha needed a new book, and apparently found a good one.

Back at Ocracoke Campground, which is part of Cape Hatteras National Seashore, it was time for a shower. As is the custom in most national parks, there are no hookups. Fortunately Lew Farber’s addition of two more solar panels was serving us well, as there was never an issue with power. Water was a different thing with 36 gallons to last a week, so two of us taking showers might be a problem,

The campground has showers, but with no hot water. I went to Camp Yonahnoka in Linville, NC where the showers were trout stream cold. the trick was to jump in, get wet and get out, lather up half the body, rinse off, jump out, lather he other half and rinse again. By the third rinse, the body became acclimated and it wasn’t a problem, but that first plunge took some fortitude. The same technique worked fine. The water was cold, but not Yonahnoka cold. Martha took a shower in the trailer, but I had to fuss at her for using too much water.

As I sampled my glass of wine, I thought about “The Old Cowboy Ranch” in British Columbia. It is the most unique campground I have ever been in, and their shower was pretty cool. It was an outdoor shower with a fence around it. Water was pumped into a rather large plastic tank on a roof above the shower. It was best not to shower in the morning, but rather in the afternoon when the sun had enough time to warm the water. It was all gravity pressure and it worked well. However, if you went in after two or three others, the water wasn’t going to be so warm, as fresh water was pumped in. Timing was everything. You might look up to see a peacock watching you as they had free rein of the property. You can find their Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/oldcowboyranch/ or on my old blog https://fishacrosscanada.wordpress.com/2013/07/

Costa Rica, Monday April 1

We had a busy day at Mawamba Lodge. Breakfast was delightful in their pretty, open air restaurant with great food and service. Martha fell in love with our waiter, who was very nice. Next, we were taken by boat down the river to the village of Tortuguero. A walk through the cute, little village and we arrived at Tortuguero National Park, the third most popular park in Costa Rica.

There is a good path into the park, which goes a long way in this 19,000 hectare (75 sq. mi.) park, but wherever we walked, we had to walk back, through the village and another 15 minutes back to the lodge. A lot of people were walking in and out and were helpful in spotting wildlife. The park is known for the sea Green Sea and Hawksbill turtles that nest here on the beautiful beach. We didn’t see any turtles, but we saw a sloth and monkeys. They are having a problem with jaguars coming into the village and attacking dogs, but we didn’t see those either.

Walking through the cute, little village, we stopped to help a boy shooting a ball into a bucket, working on his basketball skills. I helped, but soon deferred to Ed who played basketball for his famous coach/father in high school. The boy appreciated the help with a big smile on his face. In a central park people ate their lunch while one group of men played dominoes. It’s a delightful little town.

After lunch, we went for a canal tour by boat. It was hot and the middle of the day, so we were lucky to see a fair amount of wildlife.

Monkey

We had a little time by the pool. We had all signed up (or at least we thought we had) for a night hike in the National Park jungle. Most were happy to relax by the pool, but Ed, Debbie and I went. We took a boat down below the village where our guide gave us all flashlights before warning us not to touch anything, not even the hand railing on a narrow boardwalk. There could be spiders or biting insects, so “don’t touch anything!”

We set out in a grassy area next to the dock where we found frogs, toads and a huge spider web that is so strong it is used for fishing line. It is from the Golden Silk Orb Weaver that weaves a sticky web to catch its prey, but also a protective barrier to keep birds from flying into it. The tensile strength is 8 times that of steel! (https://www.golfodulceretreat.com/the-golden-orb#:~:text=The%20golden%20silk%20orb%20weaver%20epitomises%20the%20grandeur%20of%20the,fauna%20of%20this%20beautiful%20country.) The silk is also used in surgery to repair nerve damage.

From: https://www.farmersalmanac.com/orb-weaver-spiders-pest-control

Walking a 1-hour loop on a narrow boardwalk, we saw so many things, we could see why he warned us not to touch anything. I kept looking for jaguars in the trees, but with no luck. No bit snakes either, but we saw some crazy-looking bugs, spiders, the biggest being a banana spider. There was an owl moth that with his wings spread, it looked like an owl. It was a long day, but we were glad we went on this walk through the jungle.

The last things he found were bullet ants, which I never saw, being at the back of the line. He said it is the most painful bite you can get. On one trip a bullet ant fell on his hand and bit him. He said it was horrible, and his hand quickly began to swell. He quickly headed back to the boat and into the village, but the doctor was not there. He had to make the long journey to San Jose for treatment. “Don’t touch anything!”

Move to Sedona, Arizona

August 14, 2022 at 3:20 AM

59 degrees at 6:00, high 91

Three hours south on 160, then “Everything’s Fine on 89” is Sedona, Arizona. Martha had requested Sedona, after Mark’s recommendation. Along Rt 89, we saw a sign for Wapatki National Monument. Since this trip is all about the national parks and monuments of the “Four Corners”, I wheeled into the park, not knowing anything about it. From the NPS website:

Footprints of the Past

Nestled between the Painted Desert and ponderosa highlands of northern Arizona Wupatki seems like an unlikely landscape for a thriving community. In the early 1100s during a time period of cooler temperatures and wetter seasons the ancestors of contemporary Pueblo communities created a bustling center of trade and culture. For Hopi people these sites represent the footprints of their ancestors.

Next door is the Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. It erupted between 1040 and 1100. Wapatki is different in a couple of ways. It is not in a canyon, and it had a ball court, the northern most ball court in America. The park is 39,422 acres, and Sunset Crater is another 3,000 acres. The ball game was likely similar to the Mayan or Aztec games with a stone ball, likely covered with pitch.

Driving on to Sedona, traffic was slowed by road construction for miles around Flagstaff on Interstate 17. It was stop and go traffic. Our route took us south of Sedona before we could head back north. The mountains surrounding Sedona are spectacular. 

We arrived at Rancho Sedona RV Park where a young man guided us into our site. 

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