Our goal was to hike Pueblo Alto Loop Trail, which is about 5.5 miles on top of the north mesa to another settlement, Pueblo Alto. Continuing across the mesa and around the rim with views of the valley, Pueblo Bonita, Chetro Ketl and Chaco Canyon.
People have been here for thousands of years, but in the mid-800’s they began to build on a grand scale for 300 years, and it is incredible what they did. It became the hub of trade for settlements throughout the southwest and Mesoamerica, bringing chocolate here. They built roads to connect settlements, irrigated fields, stored water and foods and had ceremonies in their great, round kivas. Many Native Americans feel this was where they came from, and it holds great spiritual value to them. To build such a structured society, there had to be strong leadership and organization.
The trail starts behind Kin Kletso, one of seven major “great houses”. It quickly climbs up the mesa through a very narrow slot in the canyon wall. Once on top, it is mostly level with wonderful views of the settlements and the large valley. A mile around the rim, we had a great overlook of Pueblo Bonito. It is like a highway on the solid rock of the rim, the trail well-marked by cairns (rock piles). In Canada they are called Inunchucks, the Inuit name for their way of marking sites or trails on the ice.
It was a beautiful morning, beginning at 65 degrees. I almost wore a second shirt, but knew I would soon warm up. It was overcast, a blessing in July in New Mexico. Martha and I rate this the best hike we have taken. It was a perfect day for hiking; we never saw anyone else; the history is amazing, comparable to Machu Picchu; there are many unique features: solid rock canyon rim extending for miles like a highway, slot canyons, canyon steps carved 1,000 years ago, the views, “buckets” holding water, iron deposits. There were very few boring steps. Wonderful hike, and it was the ranger’s second favorite! I think her favorite was the Petroglyphs Trail, but the wash was running too hard to cross.
Pueblo del Arroyo
Is someone pointing the way?!!
Pueblo Bonito
Across the top of the mesa
Pueblo Alto
Pottery pieces to be left alone, as they often mark gravesites
Hand holds and steps carved into canyon wall 1000 years ago
We took the Loop Drive through Chaco Valley, stopping first at the Visitor’s Center. Behind the center was a 1-mile hike to Una Vida and some petroglyphs. It was pretty impressive. “Una Vida is a Chacoan “great house,” a large pre-planned multi-storied public building with distinctive masonry, formal earthen architecture, and a great kiva. Una Vida exists today in a near-natural state of preservation, free from major vandalism, and with only minor excavations and preservation repairs.” It was built in the mid-800’s AD and had 160 rooms. You can see the two streams that run through Chaco Canyon. There are six major sites on the loop drive, some largely excavated. For many Indian tribes The Pueblans, Hopi, Navajo and others, these are sacred sites where many are buried, and they don’t want further excavation. Some of these were found and excavated in the late 1800’s.
We drove to the next spot, Hungo Pavi, which included several sites, then looped behind to the cliff where there were a lot of petroglyphs. These were pretty amazing structures. Chaco Canyon was the hub of trade throughout New Mexico and beyond. I would like to see Machu Pichu, but this is pretty incredible. It is huge, and the rock work is impressive. Certainly they had the materials, with plenty of flat stones falling off the cliffs naturally, but they way they put them together, using mud for mortar would rival today’s stonework. At times they used tiny stones to fill gaps. In later buildings, they used columns, wooden support beams and flying buttresses. Sometimes they used a double-wall construction. Parts of these buildings still stand 1,000 years later!
The common thread was the kiva, a round building with windows, often aligned with the sun, moon and stars. Several of these kivas are huge! 50 people would fit comfortably. They built roads for commerce with other settlements, often carving steps in the cliffs above. They built irrigation canals and water storage. We talked about the Romans and their incredible construction at the same time. One difference is we know a lot about the history of the Romans. We know little about Chaco Culture. Why did they leave? What did they do in these great kivas? This was a huge, open society where people visited from hundreds of miles away. Artifacts were found from the west coast, Mexico and the north.
We completed the loop drive and went back to the Visitor’s Center.I found several interesting books while Martha talked with a ranger about what hike to take tomorrow. Her favorite hike was out, because we can’t cross the “wash”, which is a river right now, and it is supposed to rain tonight.
Collapsed canyon wall that damaged Peublo Bonito (Beautiful City)
Great kiva
Great kiva
Kivas were covered with timbers and woven materials
We were supposed to take a jeep tour of Canyon de Chelly (pronounced “shay” or tsegi in Navajo), but Bobby VanWinkle came to our campsite, and said the Navajo park chief closed the park to visitors. It is monsoon season and Chinle Wash has been a raging river. A truck sinks gradually in the middle of the river. One native said she had never seen it this high. Bobby knew we could cross safely, but the man in charge wanted to err on the side of safety. I was disappointed, as Bobby is known for his excellent tours, and it is the only way to really see this incredible canyon. I hope we can come back.
Why would it take so long to drive 95 miles to Chaco Canyon? Of course I didn’t want to drive the same road we drove yesterday, so we took the alternate route. We started on Rt. 64 north, a major route. A line of cars and trucks all blinked their lights at us. We are in monsoon season. Was the road washed out? Are there cows or horses on the road? This is open range on the Navajo Reservation, so there are often animals on the road, although I am pretty amazed how they seem to be road-smart. I slowed down, but never did see the problem. I think there were animals on the road.
At Alon we turned south on 12, then turned east on 13 and headed toward some big mountains. Martha said we were on a Scenic Highway. As we started up the mountain, we were surrounded by huge, red rock cliffs, and the road wound tightly through them. A car wisely passed us on a double line. We wound up the big mountain around very tight, twisty turns. I was going 10 miles/hr asking Martha if anything was coming down the mountain as I had to swing wide to get around turns. There are times I think this big, diesel truck is more than needed. Then we come to a steep mountain like this, and I am grateful to have such a powerful truck!
It is certainly a beautiful drive. Cows grazed on both sides of the road, and all the land was in use, divided amongst the Navajo in what manner I don’t know, but it’s pretty cool. Crossing the top of Buffalo Pass at almost 9,000’ and in the clouds, I feared going down would be just as difficult as coming up, but it was easier. At the top it was 62 degrees! At the bottom, we were back into arid desert.
We passed through Farmington, New Mexico and made a daring turn to get into a Kentucky Fried Chicken for lunch. A trucker had parked out front on the side of the road, and we pulled in behind him, barely leaving room for people to get in and out of the restaurant. As we passed he said with a smile, “I didn’t know where else to park! Oh well, I was hungry. Have a good day.”
As we drove a very remote road, Martha read the instructions for entering the park. “A four-wheel drive is recommended. If you get stuck on the 16.5 mile, rutted gravel road, you may have to wait a long time for a tow vehicle. If you leave your car, they will not tow it.” Martha called the Visitor’s Center. The lady said, “It is monsoon season, and the road can get washed out. Heavy rains are predicted for the next four days, and you may not be able to get out.” I stopped to fill up with gas and considered the options. I mean it’s a national Park! Can it be that bad?
Before leaving Martha had called to ask if it was OK to come in from the south. They said it is a VERY rough 20-mile road. Four wheel drive with high clearance is needed, and then came the towing warning. We opted for the north.
At the turn toward the park, we stopped at a food truck and asked if we would be OK pulling the trailer to the park. “Oh yes, it is a good road.” three miles of paved road turned to gravel, but a very nicely groomed gravel road. I breathed a sigh of relief.
From NPS. This is the good part of the road
After 11 miles on the gravel road, a sign said it was the end of county maintenance, and the road turned very rough for the last 5 miles, so rough we were going 5 mph most of the time, crossing sides to find a smoother track. Regular sedans passed coming out. Everyone waved – a sort of camaraderie of the road less traveled. Martha was mad. “How could a national park have a road like this?”
When we FINALLY entered the park, the road became paved. We turned into the small campground and parked in site 20 right in front of some ancient ruins and a petroglyph of a horse. After setting up, we drove to the Visitor’s Center. I showed my Senior Pass and got a 7-day pass to put on the mirror.
I asked who owned the park. “The United States Government” was the reply. “Why is that road so bad?” I asked. If I interpreted the answer correctly, that strip is not owned by the park and not by the county, but by the Navajo Nation. I asked why the government wouldn’t pay to at least gravel that road. “I guess they have other priorities.” There is a story here I hope to explore, but right now I have one bar of cell phone service.
We read some of the signs around the center, learning this is also a UNESCO site. We watched a 30-minute movie about how the Chaco Indians developed this area into a huge city with very large, well-built buildings from the middle 800’s to the 1100’s. It became a hub of travel and trade with well-engineered roads in all directions. A map showed the many Chaco settlements and buildings throughout New Mexico.
We might have taken the Scenic Loop Drive, but I was tired, so we opted for a drink and dinner. We sat outside, looking at the huge, black cloud approaching. With binoculars, we explored the cliffs and walls, noticing a lot of bird poop. Were they owls, bats or cliff swallows. There were multiple holes where birds could live.
As the storm approached and the winds picked up, we put the awning up and lowered most of the windows. There was a little thunder, but it turned out to be just a good, steady rain. Temperatures dropped to the mid 60’s, which made for great sleeping.
In the afternoon we drove 30 miles south on 64 to Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. We drove through a huge storm with rain so hard, I had to pull over for a while. We seem to bring rain wherever we go. There is a nice Visitor’s Center with a lot of information. Then there is the trading post itself – the oldest trading post with continuous business. The Hubbell family ran the business until 1965, selling to the National Park Service.
Established in the late 1870’s, Hubble played a huge role in trade and development in the area. Having lived with a couple of Indian tribes, he spoke the Navajo language and established good relationships. It is still an active store, selling all kinds of goods, but there is a whole room with rugs made from the preferred Churro Sheep, which could survive in this harsh environment. Their wool makes great rugs, which are prized.
Visitor’s Center
Rug woven like Rainbow Rock
“An Endangered Breed
Churro sheep remained the primary source of wool for the Navajo until 1863. During the 1850s, thousands of Churros were trailed west to supply the California Gold Rush. Most of those that remained behind were crossed with fine-wool rams to supply the demand for garment wool caused by an increasing population and, later, the Civil War.
In 1863 the U.S. Army under the command of Colonel Kit Carson marched into the lands of the Navajo and began a systematic campaign of destroying all means of Navajo livelihood. The army slaughtered sheep by the thousands, as well as burning crops and killing other livestock. A few bands of Churro managed to survive because they were moved to remote canyons.
Faced with starvation during the winter of 1863–1864, thousands of Navajo surrendered to U.S. Army troops in a forced removal policy from their traditional homelands known as the Long Walk. More than 8,000 Navajo walked more than 300 miles to Fort Sumner, New Mexico, to a reservation area called Bosque Redondo. Enduring extreme hardships, the Navajo were incarcerated at Bosque Redondo for four years. In 1868 the Navajo returned to their homeland under a treaty of agreement between the U.S. government and the Navajo Tribe.
Churro Sheep Re-introduced
After the incarceration at Bosque Redondo, the Navajo were issued new breeds of sheep and encouraged by Indian agents to increase their flocks. Federal agents gave two sheep to every man, woman, and child. In 1870 the U.S. govern- ment supplied the Navajo with native Mexican sheep—a cross between Churro and Kentucky Merino brought to the Southwest over the Santa Fe Trail. Other attempts were made by the U.S. government to build up mutton production. Each resulted in further contamination of the Churro breed.” From: https://www.nps.gov/hutr/planyourvisit/upload/CHURRO-SHEEP.pdf
The sheep themselves have quite a history, as do the Navajo.
All kinds of baskets hung from the ceiling. There was a rack of antique rifles used in the west. It’s a cool place with a nice staff, and probably a great place to buy rugs.
We had scheduled a Jeep tour of the canyon with highly-touted Bobby Vanwinkle, but Chinle Wash was flooded and too high to cross into the canyon. Someone had tried, but his pickup truck remained stuck in the flooded stream. We drove the North Rim to view the overlooks. We talked with a nice lady selling jewelry and pottery she makes. Having lived here her whole life, she said she had never seen the creek so high. It turns out there are two canyons, both pretty, but the first one has a larger creek.
A man sits on the bank, looking at his truck
One overlook was called Massacre Canyon, where Kit Carson chased the Indians up the box canyon, trapping and killing many of them. The creek in this canyon is not as big, so there was less flooding.
“For nearly 5,000 years, people have lived in these canyons – longer than anyone has lived uninterrupted anywhere on the Colorado Plateau. In the place called Tsegi, their homes and images tell us their stories. Today, Navajo families make their homes, raise livestock, and farm the lands in the canyons. A place like no other, the park and Navajo Nation work together to manage the land’s resources.” From https://www.nps.gov/cach/index.htm
The Ancient Ones, from whom so many tribes descended, built incredible homes in alcoves, protected from rain, snow, sun and others. It is incredible how many perfectly-formed alcoves there are on the Colorado Plateau, but this canyon is pretty special.
We chatted with our neighbors in a cool NoBo trailer with a tent on top. A lady was making pancakes. Martha went over to see the unique NoBo, similar to Ruff and Sandra’s, but smaller. they had five people traveling in it – two small children, a teen-age boy, two women and the mother of one.
Christine, with a big, beautiful smile, welcomed us, and showed us around. They were Hopi, with various links and marriages. With a slide-out drawer, she was cooking on an outdoor gas stove. There was a large cooler-like refrigerator behind it. Two cute girls said Hi from inside the tent on top of the trailer. The teen-age boy was sleeping inside where three sleeping bags appeared to take up the whole inside. The mother sat at a picnic table.
They were from the state of Washington on a two-week tour. Once they heard we were headed to Canyon de Chelly, the mother opened up, telling us about the Hopi Nation living within the Navajo Nation. They live on top of three mesas that was largely overlooked by the Spanish, who saw the area as unproductive land. She said the Hopi are a peaceful people who didn’t wander so much as the Navajo. They build homes and grew a lot of their food.
It was interesting hearing their stories, but we finally let them eat their breakfast. The teen-age boy came out and introduced himself. He said he was listening to music, which he then interprets and writes his own version. They were all very nice.
We drove south on 163 through Kayenta turning east on 160, then south again on 59 for a pleasant drive. For the third time we called Sirius XM to try to fix my weather app, always an important feature, but especially on this trip to see how hot it is going to be, or how much it will rain. We are in the monsoon season in this area, so it can get interesting. It is pretty amazing how big, dark storms gather each afternoon. You can see the rain traveling across the area, yet it might never touch us.
Martha got somewhere, but then lost cell coverage. We tried again in Chinle near Canyon de Chelly and got to the travel app division before loosing contact.
We pulled into a nice, little Visitor’s Center and looked around. A young lady explained we should drive the south rim of the canyon in the afternoon/evening and the north rim in the morning. There are various overlooks along the way. She also explained the two campgrounds, Cottonwood and Spider Rock Campground on top of the mountain. She explained Canyon de Chelly is pronounced de Shay, From Wikipedia: “The name Chelly (or Chelley) is a Spanish borrowing of the Navajo wordTséyiʼ, which means “canyon” (literally “inside the rock” < tsé “rock” + -yiʼ“inside of, within”). The Navajo pronunciation is [tséɣiʔ]. The Spanish pronunciation of de Chelly[deˈtʃeʎi] was adapted into English, apparently modeled on[clarification needed] a French-like spelling pronunciation, and is now /dəˈʃeɪ/də-SHAY.”
They had a very big rain yesterday, and the river or creek had flooded the area. We first drove through Cottonwood Campground. Signs said the bathrooms were closed due to water pressure problems, so we drove 15 miles to look at Spider Rock Campground. It was very rough-looking with trailers and trucks and old equipment at the entrance. With a huge, black cloud looming, we turned around and started back down.
Normally a creek, that has to be crossed to get into the canyon
We stopped at the first overlook and had lunch. I took a long nap since I was up early this morning. We walked over to the rocky edge to see what was below. We saw an incredibly beautiful valley surrounded by sheer rock walls. A stream ran through the middle. For thousands of years this valley has been farmed and lived in. We couldn’t wait to tour it with a guide tomorrow, but we could see how it might be difficult to drive through the valley with the stream so swollen.
We explored every overlook on the way down, and all were beautiful. The Navajo people still farm the valley and the top of the mesa where horses roamed free.
We set up camp back at Cottonwood after talking with a ranger. She said two bathrooms were open now with flush toilets, so Martha was happy. We settled on site 35, apparently a popular site. A tour group of kids set up behind us as that dark cloud crept closer. Fortunately, the bulk of it went around us. Depending on where the bulk of it went, we may or may not be able to take our tour tomorrow with the highly-touted Tsegi Jeep Tours and Bobby Vanwinkle.
Indian tribes in the Four CornersOpen range where horses run freeStreet-smart
We drove 30 miles north of Monument Valley to The Goosenecks State Park, stopping to take pictures at Forest Gump Point, with a very pretty view of Monument Valley. We also stopped at Mexican Hat to take some pictures. Driving up a gravel road, there was a campground ahead, but we decided not to explore it since we had a full day on the agenda.
Run Forrest run!Mexican Hat
We passed a sign for Bear’s Ears National Monument, which we would see later. I have been questioning what Bear’s Ears is during our travels in the southwest. I now understand it is over 2,000 square miles of land with hundreds of ancient heritage sites. Apparently difficult to understand and visit, I would like to return and explore it.
We pulled into The Goosenecks State Park, but the ranger station wasn’t open yet. Our Utah State Park pass came in handy again, so we went through to the parking lot. I had been tempted to stay at this campground, but wasn’t quite sure what it would be like out in the middle of nowhere. Well, it is very cool and safe. Only a few campers were there. You can also camp all along the rim, or just go out there for dinner, build a fire and enjoy the views.
It had been raining for a while, and a rainbow right over the Goosenecks greeted us. I scrambled frantically to get some pictures before it dissolved and went away. We walked through the campground and down a dirt road that wound its way to the end of a point. Along the way were primitive campsites with fire pits and overlooks of the San Juan River below.
San Juan River winding around three goosenecksMartha’s iPhone
Three people were camped in one, and we stopped to talk with them. It was a couple with a friend from Thailand had pitched tents last night. The stars must be incredible here, but they said it was cloudy. Still they loved their spot. They were headed for Valley of the Gods today, and so were we.
We continued out to the point to see the river bending around it. You could camp in the campground and come out here for dinner and a fire and watch the stars, or pitch your tent and watch all night. It’s a very cool spot!
A fair sample of what we have seen in 8 weeks of travel
We walked back to the parking lot where Martha talked with a jewelry salesperson named Bobby. His father and grandfather had sold their goods here too, and his father was a code-talker. Bobby is also a code-talker, but we think of code-talkers like the movie. He said the move doesn’t do it justice, but to read one of several books written on the subject. He talked about coming here with his father and climbing down to the river and how difficult it was coming back up.
We drove northwest to Valley of The Gods, which is a 19-mile loop drive through the valley on a gravel road. It is very pretty, although the road is a bit rough. A tow truck was carrying a jeep out, which made us a bit leery, but the road was fine, and a van and several cars passed us when we stopped to look at named monuments. By the end, we thought the name was a bit over the top, but certainly a cool place. There is a bed and breakfast lodge on the west end of the drive.
The Seven Sailors
Setting Hen
Battleship
Soldiers watching
Leaving the park and driving back toward Mexican Hat, we were struck by swirled colors along a mountain.
We drove a few miles from the KOA campground to the entrance of Monument Valley, on the Navajo Nation, and paid our $8 per person fee. We met Bobby Atele and climbed onto the seats built on the back of a Chevrolet pickup. A couple from Alabama were in front of us with their son. A young couple from Italy were behind us.
At the first stop, Bobby told us about several monuments before us, then about the plants around us, and how they are used. He talked about the movies and which monuments they were filmed around. Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_appearances_of_Monument_Valley_in_the_media) lists 63 movies that have been made here starting in 1925. Stagecoach might be the most famous and iconic. John Ford would make eight movies here. Vertical Limit opens with a climbing scene on one. Mission Impossible opened with Tom Cruise climbing solo. Although Bobby said it was in Monument Valley, I found an interesting article on the event, (https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mission_impossible_ii_climbing_scenes_special-18), which said it was filmed at Dead Horse Point, Utah, one of the coolest places we have been on this trip, where we met the handsome, young couple eating breakfast. I remember watching “Stagecoach” and thinking the red sand looked fake, but it is not.
Not our guide, he said with a smile, “You better take a map. Bobby sometimes gets lost.”
John Ford Point
Bobby Atele
Rocks looking like clamshells
Sleeping dragon
Driving down into the valley, we stopped at John Ford Point, where some iconic scenes were filmed. They have a horse and rider to give perspective to the immense landscape, but the horse was eating breakfast.
Sleeping Dragon with a herd of sheep and sheep dog.
The Sentinel
This is the Navajo Nation. People live here
We soon left the gravel roads and traveled on sand tracks made more tricky by a big rain last night. Besides the iconic monuments, we saw giant rocks shaped like oysters, a cliff shaped like a great dragon, a hole in the top of a cave that looked like an eagle’s eye from one direction and a Mohican from the front. to demonstrate the echo of the cave, Bobby played his flute. He was quite good. One area had very cool petroglyphs and remains of homes made of rock.
Looks like an eagle with the hole being the eye and the beak to the left
At the dragon rock, a local farmer’s sheepdog came to check us out. Then I noticed the herd of sheep grazing and moving along the dragon. People still live amongst the rocks. Some of their homes are build like they were hundreds of years ago, because it works in this harsh environment. Some are built with modern materials. Sweat lodges are still used in a ceremony for the transition of a boy into manhood.
Looking like a Mohican Indian facing to the left
It is rare to find homes or farms in a national park, but this is not a national park. It is the Navajo Nation. Although I first complained to myself about a house in the way of my picture, but the time we completed our three and a half hour tour, I became comfortable with it. Actually, it adds a lot when you realize these people have been here for hundreds or thousands of years. Bobby told of one lady who recently passed away at 105 years old, spending her entire life here.
There are so many things we would not have seen if we hadn’t taken this tour, and Bobby did an outstanding job.
We have been in a lot of places without cell coverage or WIFI, so I am 21 days behind! We have been in some spectacular places. Our national parks and monuments are great places. For the next 12 days, we should have good service, so I should catch up.
Sunday, July 24, 2022
We packed up at Ten-X Campground, with one more visit by our elk. Suddenly, there were barking dogs. I looked up to see a couple of mixed breed medium-sized dogs running after the elk. He took off at a big trot, leading those dogs to who knows where. Soon a young lady came after them, calling futilely. She may never see those dogs again, depending on how long they chase the elk, and if they have any sense of finding their way back to the campground.
We hooked up and headed east, making one last stop at Lipan Point for some spectacular views of the Grand Canyon. Once down the mountain, we turned northeast on Rt. 160 toward Monument Valley. We were a little concerned about the heat, as we had been very comfortable at Ten-X. Except for the yellow jacket invasion, I would rate the campground a 9 or 10. As we drove out, we saw traps that were working well around the fresh water spigots.
It was about a 2.5 hour pleasant drive to Monument Valley KOA campground. Once settled, we went to the Visitor’s Center. Although open, it was pretty stark inside. We wandered around reading signs and looking at pictures. A young foreign couple asked an employee about maps and trails. She was very curt. “All we do is sell maps. We don’t take credit cards. This is an all-cash park.” She gave them no information or help of any sort and should be relieved of her position immediately. The Welcome Center was not very welcoming.
We drove through the traffic circle to Goulding’s Lodge and Trading Post to look around. Harry and Leone (called Mike) Goulding came here in the 1920’s, starting the trading post, hotel and bringing people here to see this great place. They were influential in bringing John Ford here. Ford would later film “Stagecoach” here. That would start a long history of movie-making in Monument Valley.
Back at the KOA, a big, black storm was approaching from the north. With monuments right on the other side of the street, we headed out for some pictures. It made for some very dramatic shots.
We were driving the eastern part of the south rim and came to a sandy parking area with no sign. We pulled in and asked a man who was walking back down the trail. He said it was a beautiful view and a 3/4 mile walk up this sand road.
We didn’t know what to expect, but it was a beautiful spot out on a ledge with great views. On the way back a family (perhaps German) were taking pictures of a tree, so we stopped to ask what they saw. It was a gopher snake eating a mouse. How it caught the mouse 4’ up a tree is a mystery.
Then we drove to the museum, a cool building that was closed. Outside the building were vendors. We walked around the other side to find an ancient site that was built in the Pueblo Indians 800 years ago in the Pueblo Ii era 950-1150). It was occupied for about 20 years.
On the other side of the closed museum, Indian art was being sold by four vendors, and all of it was very good. Martha bought a couple of pieces.
We talked with a museum guide, who told us some of the Pueblo beliefs. They believe they came out of the Earth. We would learn later that their kivas were important because symbolically they climbed down into the kiva from the roof, exiting the same way. He said Pueblos believe there are four periods, and we are in the last one now.
We made one more stop at Navajo Point before heading back to camp
