Category: Canadian National Parks

Move to Hattie Cove in Pukaskwa National Park

August 23, 2025 

We were pretty efficient getting ready, and were soon out on the Trans Canada Highway. It was cloudy with some fog, but few were on the road this morning. I was happy to get behind a good tractor-trailer driver. He was maintaining a sensible speed, so I stayed well-behind, and kept looking for moose crossing the road.

The fog got a little worse, and it started raining hard. the truck put his emergency lights on, so I did the same. I could barely see him while he slowed down. Then it stopped raining for a bit, then started again. My truck driver pulled over in an unlikely spot. I couldn’t do much, but pass and go on in those conditions, but I wondered what had happened. 

The skies cleared, and Martha found Robin’s Donuts, so we stopped for egg sandwiches and coffee. With two people working behind the counter, they were busy. We wondered what all these people were doing. Obviously some were working, but Martha asked 6 guys at the table next to us if they were here for work or fun. “Fishing,” one said with a smile. It was a fly-in to a lake with Walleye and Pike. 

We only had an hour left to go, and we pulled in at 10:30. “Drive around and choose an empty site,” she said. We loaded a bag of firewood and headed off. Passing up one spot, we thought we should take the next, and it turned out to be a good one. With some practice, we have gotten better at backing into a site. 

We set up and had lunch. I finished the excellent chicken and rice soup from the Witches Brew in Sault Ste. Marie, while Martha finished up the chili she had made. Then I took a 1-hour nap – out like a light. 

I got up with a spark of energy and built a fire. I spoke to Mike across the way in an Airstream. We exchanged greetings and I asked how long he had been here. “Since May’” he said. He said he moves every 15 days. He said this is the jewel of Canadian parks! 

Sitting by the fire in the sun felt good. It’s an iron fireplace unlike any I have seen, small with a flat cover about 2/3rds the way toward the back. A grill hinges down from that to cover the front. There are slots on the sides to draw air to the fire, and a cutout on the front side so you can see; It also serves to send the heat out the front. It resembles a wood stove and works great.

Does this chair belong to David Gordon Sutton??

We enjoyed it until rain drove us in. We must have had 20 changes in weather. It rained, then blue sky everywhere, then the clouds returned, some rain, blue sky, wind blowing, calm.

We walked down to the Visitor’s Center to get WIFI. There is no cell service here, so many were gathered . Our neighbors across the street came up to say hi. Luis and Anna are from Puerta Vallarta. They are very nice, and have been on the road for two years. They are heading to Vancouver next. 

It is a beautiful spot behind the Visitor’s Center. It sits on a long, narrow bay, called Hattie Cove. There were warnings about an algae bloom where they usually launch canoes, but it is restricted now.

Hike Lomond River and Anniversary Lunch

Sunday, July 28, 2019

Looking for an easier hike, we went to the Lomond River Hike. It started through a forest with orchids everywhere.

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Martha found a patch of wild strawberries

We went into Woody Point for our Anniversary lunch at the Old Loft, which was OK.

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Moose pie

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Martha had fishcakes baked beans

Tablelands Lecture/Hike to Green Gardens

Saturday, July 27, 2019

There is a great overlook of Bonne Bay, where we sat in Adirondack chairs in the morning, watching for whales. There is a beach next to the dock, where people go for a swim.

Looking for whales

 

We went up to the beautiful, modern visitor’s center for some WIFI, but the speeds were very slow. I could upload a picture every 3 minutes. We had taken the tour of the center yesterday, and it explains the area quite well, but to learn more, we went up to the Tablelands for a geology lecture at 10:00.

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Gros Morne National Park, where the mountains meet the sea

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Model of the Pitcher Plant we see so often

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Guide, Chris Rohrback is simply the best!_1GW2059

We were thrilled to see our guide from a previous lecture at Green Point, Chris Rohrback. She is a geologist, who has a great way of simplifying complex things. Gros Morne was made a national park in 1970’s to protect it’s beauty. Later a geologist, whose name escapes me, studied the area finding it so unique that he developed plate tectonics theory. 

At the Green Point site there is a walled cliff of rock that is turned up on end when two plates pushed up. Usually these are horizontal, but the verticality of this spot makes it so different. First the point is covered with big, round boulders, plowed here by glaciers. All the different layers of shale (mud), limestone, sandstone and a conglomerate, like aggregate. Because of these studies, Gros Morne was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

At Tablelands, this desert-like area was the Earth’s Mantle pushed up. It is composed of cadmium, cobalt, chromium and other toxic metals, so no vegetation grows here. Well, some does, but very little. Across the U-shaped valley is another mountain composed of sediment, so there is plenty of growth, and a beautiful trout stream runs through it. The U-shaped valley was caused by glaciers, one 500,000 years ago and one 10,000 years ago. Each left a line of boulders like bathtub rings along the sides.

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After an hour and a half talk, we had a 30-minute walk back to the car. We drove to Trout River, having heard of a good restaurant there. first we drove through Trout River Campground to check it out. There was a great view of Little Trout River Pond.

Bonne Bay

Little Trout River Pond

Trout River Harbor

Trout River

Trout River

Trout River

Trout River Post Office

Trout River

Seaside Restaurant

Seaside Restaurant

We found Seaside Restaurant and enjoyed a good meal of Scallops, salad, seafood chowder, fish sandwich and Partridge berry pie. 

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We were tired, but wanted to do at least part of the Green Garden Hike, which can be 9km or all day, and is rated moderate. You have to earn your keep in Gros Morne. It is a long, rather boring hike across a small mountain and down the other side down to the ocean. There are rocks and many stairs along the way. It took us an hour and a half to get there.

_1GW2084Hike to Green Gardens

Finally breaking out to a cliff overlooking the ocean and beach, the views were spectacular. Martha sat on a picnic table while I explored for a short time. We knew we had a 2-hour hike, mostly uphill, to get out, so we didn’t want to stay long.

There are natural meadows along the cliff. I was surprised to see lots of poop. This grassy area must attract lots of moose in the evening and maybe caribou. There are campsites along the coast, and I can see why you would like to stay here a while, hiking the beautiful coast. I would have to be younger to carry a 35-pound pack down here, but it would sure be fun.

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On the way back up, we passed a young couple with three small kids. How they were going to manage getting them back up that mountain concerned us. We were exhausted by the time we got back to the top, and rested at a platform with bench seats. We talked with a family who had just done the same hike. They were from Corner Brook and had a cabin near here, where they would stay two weeks. 

After a quick dinner and an episode of a cooking show, we were soon asleep. Of course our neighbors had a Saturday night party that went on until 12:00. I closed the window and stuffed my ears with tissue.

Granite Coffee House and Laundry

Granite Coffee House and Laundry

Granite Coffee House and Laundry

Friday, July 26, 2019

 We loaded the washing machines at Granite Coffee and Laundry, and went next door for breakfast. I had the works, eggs, sausage and pancakes, while Martha had eggs, bacon and toast and a pancake. They also had WIFI, slow, but it was WIFI. In fact it would be the last WIFI I would see for a while.

Granite Coffee is my favorite place in Woody Point, for the laundry, for the people, the WIFI and the food. There is a liquor store that also has food and a variety of other things, and a nice young lady running it. There is an ice cream shop with a craft store and nice restaurant upstairs. This is regatta weekend with all kinds of events going on, and it was getting busy.

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We went to the lovely Visitor’s Center, where I tried to learn more geology. Behind the Visitor’s Center, there is an Lookout Hills Trail, which translated, means climb up this bigass mountain for a pretty view, and a pretty view it was! Bonne Bay, no matter where you view it form, is a spectacular piece of water.

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Tablelands

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