Category: Uncategorized

Leaving Acadia

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

50℉ and raining at 4:00

Friday, October 21, 2016

With the campground closing, we packed up and headed out to Naples in the southwest corner of Maine. Our Airstream neighbor said he always checks the wheel lugs before starting out, a great suggestion. I checked the trailer wheels last night and they were fine, but the truck’s were a bit loose. Then I checked all the tires for pressure, adding a bit of air here and there. From Maryland, our Airstream neighbor bought his 2004 27’ for $17,000, an incredible price. They said they were driving and passed it. The owner had just put it in the yard with a for sale sign. In perfect condition, he wrote a check on the spot. They have had a little hard luck lately. He forgot to put the hitch jack up and broke it. Ordering a new one, he had to cut out the old one. Then a tree fell on his classic sports car during the recent hurricane. Yikes!

Driving through Poland, we looked at one campground that was terrible and another that was probably a horse camp, so we made 98 turns on little streets winding around these two giant lakes. It looks like Smith Mountain Lake. You can tell thousands of people come here in the summer. With all the water along the coast and all the lakes in Maine, you would think you could find a quiet place to yourself. I find it very depressing when I think of an overpopulated world using up all Earth’s resources. When we arrived at the campground, We went in to check in, finding a very nice office and nice lady, Debbie, at the desk. She told us to go and look at several sites, choose what we liked, and come back and tell her. Perfect! 

Rain, Rain, Rain

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

In the middle of the night I thought I was back in Banff for the 2013 flooding. It rained hard all night and continued all day with the winds picking up in the middle of the day to 45 km/hr. We took the opportunity to relax a bit, do some laundry and go to the Visitor’s Center for some computer work, and we signed up for two more nights.  By mid-day Martha was getting a bit grumpy, so we went into Alma where she had a pint of beer, soup and a sandwich.  There is one gas station in Alma and it has one pump, but it was empty. We have a quarter tank of gas, which should hold us for a couple of days, and then we have been carrying a 5-gallon can in the toolbox. 

We drove down to Point Wolfe, stopping several times to get a quick picture in the rain. There was a beautiful covered bridge over a great-looking trout stream, and we walked just far enough to get an overlook of a bay with the tide out. Other cars were driving around like us, but a few were parked with no one in them, so they were obviously hiking in the rain and wind. 

We headed back to camp and looked at pictures of the trip, trying to remember all the places we have been. I noticed a lot of the pictures came up a bit dark on the slide show. Do you find them that way on the blog?? I know a lot depends on individual computer screens.

For the fifth time, I fixed the cabinet door under the sink that keeps getting jiggled loose. We have travelled some rough highways though. On Ed’s suggestion, we have been taping these doors, but it still bounced loose. Oh well, I am getting pretty quick with it. One of the screws on Martha’s kayak handle even came undone, so I put that back in. 

The rains stopped by about 7:00 pm, but the winds decided to get even stronger. I worried about a tree coming down in the night, but thankfully nothing happened. The weather forecast for the next five days is good, clear, in the 50’s with very little wind:} We have been so lucky with the weather the whole trip!

Kayaking Black River and Hiking Claire Fontaine Trail

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

42℉ at 5:00 and 75 at 3:00

Saturday, October 8, 2016

Kayaking the Black River was the goal of the day. Since we just have one kayak, I went first to test the waters while Martha hiked the Claire Fontaine Trail. They haven’t had much rain, so the river was low. The tide was out, adding to the problem, but I enjoyed exploring for a little over an hour. I found a lot of ducks and some shore birds. Then the wind kicked up and I returned to the put-in spot. Shortly Martha returned from her hike, saying how much she enjoyed it. She opted to sit and read her book while I took the hike. Although the river is pretty, the leaves took center stage. We had our lunch at a picnic table in the sun, enjoying the view.

img_0903img_0906img_0908img_0909

Driving back, we stopped at Callanders Beach, which is on the sound. By now, the tide was in pretty good. It’s a couple of hundred yards to the beach, so I tried walking  across. Martha said she would wait. Once up to my knees at about 75 yards, I chickened out. Surely it would be fun in the summer. This is a gorgeous place, rich in fish, clams, lobsters, deer and moose. Like the Shenandoah National Park, they made a lot of people mad when they took their homes and farms, but it saved a beautiful place for generations.

Martha made Lobster Newburg with the extra lobsters. It was wonderful!

img_0910

Percé and on to New Richmond

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

42℉ at 5:00 with high of 55

Monday, October 3, 2016

We packed up and headed south. I had a relapse with my cold, so I wasn’t feeling too spunky, but it was a pretty drive on a very windy day.  When we got to Percé the winds were blowing up a gale, but the sky was clear and the Northern Gannets were unconcerned as they flew all over the bay feed ing on whatever the rough seas brought in. We could have easily bypassed this spot, but that would have been a mistake. It is a beautiful place, even in the howling winds. In fact the winds made it even prettier with the waves splashing up on the shore and all the birds flying. There is a little campground right on the cove that was still open. It would be a great place to stay, but we needed to move on.

New Richmond is a pretty, little town on Chaleur Bay, which is listed as one of the prettiest bays in the world. We found a campground that was open, set up camp, built a fire and cooked potatoes and a trout we  bought at a Poissonerie. This is a campground where people leave their campers all year, and it sits beside the Cascapèdia River, rated in the top 10 salmon rivers in the world. I didn’t care. I was tired and not feeling so well. There are no fire pits beside the campsites, but all on the river.  While it was cooking at one of those fire pits with my truck parked beside it, an older man drove very slowly past, giving me a serious look. He parked right in front of the truck and got out. I was in no mood, so if he wanted to get nasty, I was ready. He was very overweight, with a big bubble sticking out of his belly button, exposed by his shirt that could not cover the protuberance. Unshaven and with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth, he approached. Martha and I said the usual. “Bonjour” and he of course grumbled some French that we couldn’t understand. We asked for English, and he said “OK”. Then I asked if we had taken his favorite fishing spot. Then he said “Oh no. Any place is good as another”. I asked what kind of fish were caught here, and he said trout. “What kind of trout?” He couldn’t find the word in English, but I gathered Speckled Trout, maybe Brook Trout. “There are not so many any more” he said. Our fish was cooked now, and I moved to a cooler spot off the fire. He saw that, turned away and bid us a good night. 

The fish was great! After cleaning up, I saw he was sitting in his car with the heat on and dimmer lights illuminating his rod. I tried to approach without scaring him, asking if he was catching anything and what he was fishing with. Worms, always worms!  He grew up here, hunting and fishing, then worked for a company that sent him all over Canada. Retired now for 15 years, he said he likes this place better than any other in all of Canada. Asking why the fishing was not so good any more, he said bass have moved in, and what I gathered were Striped Bass. since then, the trout population has dwindled. He talked about how famous this river is for salmon fishing, but now is not as good. It was difficult to determine all he was saying in broken English interspersed with French words, but it sure is better than my French! He said there are now Steelhead coming in. A Steelhead is a Rainbow Trout that goes to sea and back into the rivers. Rainbow Trout love to eat Salmon eggs. He said he has seen videos where the Rainbow will butt into the Salmon females to punch the eggs out. He talked about how the Striped Bass is a nice enough fish to catch, but not so much to eat, and the Steelhead is similar. “They are not like trout”, he said.

I asked if the weather is warmer now than when he grew up, as Stripped Bass shouldn’t be able to survive cold trout streams. He said, “OH yes!” It is moose hunting season now, and when he grew up, there was snow on the ground. Cleaning a moose is a big job. Now the temperatures can reach 72℉. People have to take huge coolers with ice to dress the moose. Even yesterday at 55℉, if you are out of the wind, the sun is quite warm. You could wear shorts and a short sleeve shirt in the sun, but you would have to put more clothes on in the shade. I wished him good luck with his fishing.

Haircut and a Great Waterfall

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

39℉ at 6:00, a rainy morning, 

Tuesday, September 27, 2016

It rained hard all morning, so we read our books and made cranberry muffins from the Trappist Monks. By 11:00 we were stir-crazy and the rain was letting up, so we drove east to Rimouski so Martha could get a haircut. The ladies at the Accquiel suggested the best place to go. Fortunately they were able to take her in after a short wait. I went to a nearby oeufs place hoping for WIFI and an expresso. I got a nice expresso, but no WIFI. When Martha was done, her nice stylist, Suzie, recommended Maison du Spaghetti for lunch, so we went. I ordered pasta with meatballs and mushrooms and Martha ordered Lasagna with goat cheese and sun dried tomatoes. Both were outstanding, and they had WIFI. 

I had seen a waterfall writeup in the Gaspèsie travel book, so we decided to go there. We found the accquiel and a nice girl gave us the description and a map. There was a fee of $13 each, and as they are privately run, they don’t take a park pass. We were surprised by the amount of work and expense someone went to. With walkways all along the Rimouski River, it is quite beautiful. Then you get to the highest suspension foot-bridge in Quebec at 63 meters. This thing is so well-made, I could probably drive my truck across it. 

This is a beautiful river and a beautiful canyon that is well-managed. You can come at night to see lights on the waterfall. All of the walkways are lit. It is called Le Canyon des Portes de L’Enfer, Canyon to the gates of Hell, which it surely would be if you decided to take your kayak down it. There may be more waterfalls than cities named after saints in Quebec, but this is a great one.

Biking Le Portage and La Grève

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

34℉ at 6:00 with a high of 60

Monday, September 26th

We rode the bike trails across the valley of Parc National du Bic. It’s not a big park, so the ride was about 12.5 miles through beautiful forrest and along fields lined with rail fences. The park is along a series of bays defined by old mountains of the Appalachian Range. At the south end of the park we came out on a beach where two ladies discussed the day’s news. It was a chilly 50℉ with the ever-present wind off the St. Lawrence, but that didn’t stop one of the ladies from taking off her shoes and walking in the water. The temperature was perfect for biking or hiking, but a heavy cotton shirt does you no good when stoping and that wind cools you down. 

We walked down to La Coulèe for lunch, using a big rock as a wind break. We were on Baie du Ha! Ha!, which is beautiful. As we sat, we watched hundreds of little crayfish, or something like it, swimming around in the shallow pools of low tide. So this is what the seagulls come to feed on at low tide! 

Parc National du Bic

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

We drove north to Parc National du Bic on the St. Lawrence River. The mountains are very old, worn down to steep hills, but still very pretty. The bays are home to seals, called phoques in French. The pronunciation of this word makes interesting conversation in English. Driving around the park to get the big picture, we saw the seals resting on rocks in the bays. The tide was out, exposing rocks and sand in the bays. We toured a second campground that was very busy. Our campground is next to the only highway going north, but the traffic isn’t a bother in the Airstream, and the view of the bay is nice. Actually, it is interesting watching the cars and trucks traveling the only road going around the Gaspè Peninsula. Population of the Peninsula is 133,000, so I would ’t think there would be so many on the road, but it is busy with tractor trailers, cars and campers. A railroad track parallels the road here. I love the sound of the train whistle, and the cars rumbling past. But if you like your campground more quiet, Camping Rioux is for you.

Laura and Willie

img_0829

A very special thank you to these two amazing ladies. Friends of Gayle Wooten’s, they have taken such wonderful care of her in her time of need. Gayle’s incredible group of friends continue to support her in so many ways. A card, a note or a phone call mean so much. We spent a great day together while these ladies moved her to Symphony Manor, where they had selected the apartment to be warm and sunny. They painted it and measured it for Gayle’s furniture, and helped move her in. Meanwhile I had the easy job of taking her to the Baltimore Museum. to lunch and to Rawlings Botanic Gardens. Driving Laura’s Prius, I only got lost once. I Googled Baltimore Gardens and drove there to the south side of Baltimore, through some rough neighborhoods, to the Gayle’s continuous comments of, “Where are we going?” Well, Baltimore Gardens is a neighborhood……without any gardens. 

I am also amazed with Gayle’s positive spirit. While we can’t always understand what she is talking about, she can tell what we are talking about, and her quick, reflex responses are quite good and often humorous. She can still communicate with a look, and her infinite variety of facial expressions. She handled her move with some tears and fears, but then put on her positive face and gracefully toured the new facility, greeting all the new people. With a good sense of humor, a positive spirit and incredible friends, it’s a good life.

Thank you to these wonderful ladies and to all of Gayle’s friends who are so supportive.

Dropping Back Toward Quebec City

59℉ at 5:00, 68 high

Tuesday, September 20,2016

I fly to Baltimore Thursday, so Martha was anxious to move today to get laundry done, get a propane tank filled and get some groceries. She has decided to stay in a campground along the St. Lawrence. It will be her first time alone in the trailer, and that is a totally different feeling. If she doesn’t feel comfortable in the campground, it will give us time to move. She is thinking about biking along the coast or visiting small towns along the river, so we drove to St.Jean-Port-Jolie, about an hour from the bridge to Quebec. We checked into Bonnet Red Campground right in town. A very nice couple is beside us. They come here every year, and it is their favorite place, so they will be here for three days. That is very comforting.

We did a bunch of laundry and cruised around town to get the big picture. It is a big wood carving area with a large museum. There are cute shops and restaurants, and there is a very nice bike trail all along the St. Lawrence. 

Parc national du Lac-Témiscouata

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

60℉ at 6:00 and a high of 75

Sunday, September 18, 2016

After a good night’s sleep, I felt a bit better. We went up to the very cool Visitor’s Center where we met Brigette, who had waited for us until 8:00 last night! Geez, I am so sorry! Like many Quebec people, she said she didn’t speak very good English, but she did great. She explained the park to us, where to go and what to do. We sat down to catch up on emails and book a flight to Baltimore and a place for Martha to stay in Quebec. They have a great WIFI:}

After lunch we opted for a canoe rental on Lac Touladi, putting in at the top, called Petit Lac Touladi. It takes 6 hours to paddle to the end of the lake, so we decided on going just to the top of the big lake and then going back, which turned out to be about a two-hour trip. It was a very pretty afternoon. I’m usually not too big on canoeing big lakes, but we really enjoyed this one. There is a lot of marsh around the lake, perfect for ducks, and we saw a lot with many different kinds. As the winds quieted in the afternoon, we couldn’t help staring at cloud reflections in the water. On the return trip, we went along the eastern shore of the lake, seeing big piles of mussel shells on the banks. There is a big story here about an indian, who once hunted beavers here, but then dedicated his life to protecting them. There are a lot of beaver houses, but there are also muskrats and raccoons. It was obvious there are a lot of mussels in the lake and a lot of whatever eats them. 

When you paddle in the middle of the lake, you don’t feel like you are going anywhere, but when you are on the edge, you can see how fast you are going. It was my impression we could paddle the lake faster than we could walk it. In the old days, it was the only way to travel. Lakes and rivers were the highways of the times. 

They have great showers and bathrooms here, so we cleaned up, fixed dinner and enjoyed another Will Smith movie – “Focus”, which was very good. What a luxury, especially when you have a cold, to lie in bed and watch a movie! 

error: Content is protected !!